Apparantly NOBODY thoroughly read my previous two posts on the subject here.....The only reason the factories went to the tape method in the first place was cost. Glue is the better and much more widely accepted method for laminate wrap attachment. Wrap is a laminate after all, and taping it down is NOT a laminate.

Is the glue method harder to work with? Sure. Are the end results worth it? Absolutely. I've done both methods, and the glue jobs hold up longer and look better for far longer than the tape method. Why? Because the wrap is bonded to the shell ALL THE WAY AROUND, NOT JUST AT THE SEAM. I always calculate and figure out where the seam needs to start and end BEFORE I even consider putting brush with glue to the shell or wrap. Measure twice cut once?? (Applies to glue as well!)

Tape jobs will eventually bubble up, wrinkle, and crack, lifting up off of the shell growing "wings". The tape will still be intact, just the rest of the areas where there is NO ADHESIVE will do this. If the wrap is glued all the way around, it may still crack under certain conditions, but at least it won't grow "wings".......and this will be the last time I comment on this subject.

I've been re-wrapping drums for 20 years, done both methods and have had to re-do most of the tape jobs I did from years past AT MY EXPENSE. I will only use 3M fastbond now, and have been for the past 8 years. It works great, cleans up easy, and if you do need to re-wrap, its not that difficult to remove from the shell.

:2Cents:

I completely agree with ludwig-dude on this! When you want your wrap job to be the absolute best, gluing is the only way to go. I use tape on drums that I'm selling, as it makes it easier for the buyer to remove the wrap should he/she wish to change it. Many times, I only use tape at the overlap seam, not on the shell itself, which makes removing the wrap extremely easy! I will also use tape on certain snare drums in my collection, usually MIJ or inexpensive custom snares, that I keep in my collection.

there's a fair bit of info about wrapping drums on the forum, and the web in general. anybody have a favourite links or tip/advice?

i've ordered a litre of the 3m 30nf. it seems to go under different names such as scotch-grip and scotch-weld in the uk. just keep your eyes peeled for the 30nf part.

One of my favorite sites for using the tape-method is www.jamminsam.com with a nice video.

As for the 30-nf adhesive, please be aware that it has a finite shelf life, usually about 1 year. Results after that time can't be guaranteed.

[QUOTE=Ludwig-dude;146118]

Tape jobs will eventually bubble up, wrinkle, and crack, lifting up off of the shell growing "wings". The tape will still be intact, just the rest of the areas where there is NO ADHESIVE will do this. If the wrap is glued all the way around, it may still crack under certain conditions, but at least it won't grow "wings".......and this will be the last time I comment on this subject.

>>>>>>You just cant make that statement and say its gospel. It is not.

Some tape jobs will bubble, wrinkle and crack, and some Glue jobs will bubble wrinkle and crack. The skill of the restorer is the deciding factor.

I have ALSO been rewrapping drums for 20 years. Todays 3M tape is as as strong as their glue. You have to know the tools. And any restorer can prevent the "wings" by locating the seam underneath the two rows of lugs. Simply tape it properly, and the lugs will provide pressure to hold the seam together for the life of the drum.

I Finally wraped my floor tom with the tape method. It was extremly easy. THere is one advantage with the tape that hasn't been discussed here. My tom is 16 x 15, 15" tall. I cut the wrap 14 3/4". This allowed me to install the wrap 1/8" from each edge of the shell, therefore no trimming needed. The wrap has a perfect clean edge all the way around. When glueing I always have to trim the wrap on at least one edge. Its difficult to get a perfect clean edge on the trimmed edge. I still believe glue is the best method.

This tool eliminates that "problem" you speak of with gluing wraps:http://www.drumfoundry.com/p-3307-df-wrap-trimmer.aspx

Sorry to argue - but you seem very intend on not reading other peoples posts, since you focus totally on tape ONLY used at the overlap.

A lot of people, me included, puts the super-thin 3M 9088 on the whole surface of the coating.

NOT JUST AT THE SEAM, if I must go into the same shouting mode!

Having used both glue and tape on the same type of thin Premier shells and MIJ Luan shells, I will agree to the statements from a couple of people here:

- Tape deadens thin shells a bit - by not hardening, as glue will. The difference is there, but it is NOT huge. There is also difference in sound between a thin single colour coating, and a thick, double layer Delmar Glass Glitter. My bid is, that the difference in sound between glue and tape is in the same league. Therefore, use glue on thin shells - or tape if you don´t mind the shells being damped a little.

- Tape will make no audible difference on thicker shells. On thicker shells,

use tape if you like.

I will add:

- Tape will not be strong enough to hold the overlap on a thick Delmar coating wrapped around a smallish shell like a mounted tom. I used the 9088 all around a kit in Delmar Glass Glitter, and the seams lifted. Since then, I have always used contact glue on the overlap, even with thinner wraps.

- Tape is less messy, unpoisonous, and can be used even by people that don´t have access to a workshop. A kitchen table is fine, a great advantage.

- A tape like 9088 is STICKY. I wouldn´t count on getting another try, if it goes on a little askew - the Delmar is quite brittle, and pulling it off 9088 will very likely break it. So - work methodically and calmly, like you would if using glue. You have one go!

Enjoy the work!

Regards

Jon

That is a very cool tool. I wish had one when I wraped 2 kits. If I ever wrap another complete I will definatly invest.

This floor tom I did is to match a Gretsch drum kit I rent to Miller Pro Audio. The kit had a hangin 14" floor tom. Most drummers prefer a floor tom with legs. I have a premier kit I wraped out of blue diamond pearl. I have been putting the premier floor tom with the gretsch kit. It matches the gretsch very well. I found this pearl export 16" floor tom. The lug spacing was excatly the same. I found a few gretsch toms cheap I got just for the lugs.

End result I have a 16" floor tom the matches the kit very well.