Sorry to argue - but you seem very intend on not reading other peoples posts, since you focus totally on tape ONLY used at the overlap.A lot of people, me included, puts the super-thin 3M 9088 on the whole surface of the coating.NOT JUST AT THE SEAM, if I must go into the same shouting mode!Having used both glue and tape on the same type of thin Premier shells and MIJ Luan shells, I will agree to the statements from a couple of people here:- Tape deadens thin shells a bit - by not hardening, as glue will. The difference is there, but it is NOT huge. There is also difference in sound between a thin single colour coating, and a thick, double layer Delmar Glass Glitter. My bid is, that the difference in sound between glue and tape is in the same league. Therefore, use glue on thin shells - or tape if you don´t mind the shells being damped a little.- Tape will make no audible difference on thicker shells. On thicker shells, use tape if you like.I will add:- Tape will not be strong enough to hold the overlap on a thick Delmar coating wrapped around a smallish shell like a mounted tom. I used the 9088 all around a kit in Delmar Glass Glitter, and the seams lifted. Since then, I have always used contact glue on the overlap, even with thinner wraps.- Tape is less messy, unpoisonous, and can be used even by people that don´t have access to a workshop. A kitchen table is fine, a great advantage.- A tape like 9088 is STICKY. I wouldn´t count on getting another try, if it goes on a little askew - the Delmar is quite brittle, and pulling it off 9088 will very likely break it. So - work methodically and calmly, like you would if using glue. You have one go!Enjoy the work!RegardsJon
Sorry but I do read everyone's posts. You obviously did not read any of my previous ones thoroughly. I have used both methods in the past and prefer the glue method as it is more permanent and professional. The tape method just seems so amatuerish to me. Yes, you could use tape along the whole surface of the shell, but that defeats the purpose of using tape to begin with. If you are going to that extreme to using the tape, why not just glue the wrap? And you yourself stated that the tape method won't always work properly in some cases of shell size....so why bother with it then?
Today's glue (3M FastBond) is no more toxic than the tape method. It's water based, cleans up easy when still wet, yet is very strong when it sets up, far stronger than any hi-bond tape. I'm sorry, but I just don't see the advantage to using tape to bond drum wrap, unless you are planning on re-wrapping the same kit several times (an expensive proposition in itself) with different wrap because you changed your mind on the finish or whatever.
Now, you also stated that you use contact glue on the seams so you have no issues with lifting. Well, that also defeats the purpose of using the tape method now doesn't it? The idea behind the tape method, as you said, was to work with non-poisonous materials and have no mess, along with ease of application wasn't it? You seem to be arguing a point and yet contradicting yourself in your own argument at the same time sir!
Use whatever method you feel comfortable with, but I will tell you this, I've been doing re-wraps/refinish jobs for over 20 years using the glue method and have had almost zero issues with the end results compared to the tape method. The glue method is the preferred method amongst MOST of the professional shops and re-wrap people in the industry. Maybe they might know what they are talking about?
:2Cents:
