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WFL vs Ludwig Speed Kings

Posts: 1017 Threads: 349

I've worked on quite a few Speed Kings lately, and spotted the typical problems -- steel frame and pedal word, etc.

But I've just encountered my first WFL Speed Kings. They're obviously made of better materials. For one thing, the heel hinge is NOT worn loose.

Another plus is that the rocker arm is not joined to the cam with roll pins, but solid steel pins. AND THAT'S THE PROBLEM!

Those suckers are really really hard to get out. I took one apart this morning, and eventually got it done, but the chrome around the pin didn't escape unharmed.

I'm thinking heat won't help, since they are probably going to expand at the same rate. Spraying them with PB Blaster and letting it sit might help... but it didn't this morning.

Tips? Ideas? Those puppies are made to last, that's for sure. Admirable. But a pain!

Posted on 12 years ago
#1
Posts: 1017 Threads: 349

It has also occurred to me that I don't really need to take the rocker/cam assembly apart, except for the convenience of bead blasting and painting. I can access the bearings, and as long as they're cleaned, smooth and spin freely, well...

Posted on 12 years ago
#2
Posts: 5356 Threads: 87

I just picked up a WFL SK pedal a few weeks ago. It's in great shape and a quick clean and lube and it's back in service here. An oldie but a goodie. Very happy with it.

Glenn.

Not a guru just havin fun with some old dusty drums.
Posted on 12 years ago
#3
Posts: 5356 Threads: 87

Oh to answer your Q the one I have looks like the solid pins are tapered. Where you'd need to use a punch to tap it out from the smaller end. I could be wrong but they do look like one end is larger than the other = taper pin. At that point you might want to take a round rat tail file and ream the holes and custom fit new pins. A little thread lock will assure they stay put as well.

Glenn.

Not a guru just havin fun with some old dusty drums.
Posted on 12 years ago
#4
Posts: 1017 Threads: 349

I think you're right about the tapered pins...but on the one I'm currently working on, they won't budge in either direction. I've decided to just let them be... unless ... there's a sure fire brilliant answer. Heating the rocker then freezing the pins with freon?

Or... just leave them alone: First, do no harm (to the chrome)!

Posted on 12 years ago
#5
Posts: 5356 Threads: 87

If the pin head has been mushroomed it can be difficult to remove them. Having a good flat head punch smaller than the pin head is key. It's also possible they may have cracked and slightly rotated. This makes it a pia to get them out. A lot can happen over time. Like you said leaving them alone might be the best bet. Good luck!

Glenn.

Not a guru just havin fun with some old dusty drums.
Posted on 12 years ago
#6
Posts: 4009 Threads: 209

Try using a "self-hammering" center punch to drive the pins out. I used this method on one of my WFL Speed Kings and it worked quite well.

Posted on 12 years ago
#7
Posts: 1017 Threads: 349

Like one of these?

http://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Spring-Loaded-Center-Punch-Hammer/sim/B003DW8OCI/2

I always thought those were just for making initial starting holes for drilling. They pack enough punch to get these out? Hot damn!

Posted on 12 years ago
#8
Posts: 4009 Threads: 209

From bfulton

Like one of these?http://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Spring-Loaded-Center-Punch-Hammer/sim/B003DW8OCI/2I always thought those were just for making initial starting holes for drilling. They pack enough punch to get these out? Hot damn!

Yes, one of those. They work quite well for driving out roll pins.....

Posted on 12 years ago
#9
Posts: 721 Threads: 30

Machinist's Pin Punch is what you need.

[IMG]http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b249/PapaJourney/41Q6KwXxBBL__SL500_AA300_.jpg[/IMG]

A center punch has a point that will just mushroom the end of the hollow pin.

Joe


“I did not trip and fall. I attacked the floor and I believe I am winning.”
Posted on 12 years ago
#10
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