I have had 2 drum kits that had the tape method that the wrap was totally cracking and falling of off the shells.
heres some '96 premiers that had the wrap installed with the tape method from the factory. Decide for yourselves.......
http://www.vintagedrumforum.com/showthread.php?t=12503&highlight=premiers
I have had 2 drum kits that had the tape method that the wrap was totally cracking and falling of off the shells. heres some '96 premiers that had the wrap installed with the tape method from the factory. Decide for yourselves.......http://www.vintagedrumforum.com/showthread.php?t=12503&highlight=premiers
Just an observation, but that looks more like a problem with the wrap than anything to do with whether it was glued or taped. That wrap seems to have dried out and randomly cracked.
Tape has one ENORMOUS advantage over glue, which is...if, during the rewrap, you screw up the postioning and/or edges (and its happened to me) , the tape allows you to quickly pull everything part and start again. The glue? Youre Screwed.
Also, lets say that in 3 years, a tape job does come loose. So?? Take 2 hours and retape it.
I also think that the damage glue does to a shell causes far more problems than the tape does. Use the super sticky tape, use enough of it to make a strong bond and I think youre ahead of the game, I really do.
One other thing: Lets say, you decide to sell pieces of your set, but keep (for example) the bass drum to use it with another set. Well, with the tape, you can, in 2 hours, change the wrap yet again, to match your other set.
With Glue, youre looking at several days of stripping, sanding and yeeccchhh.
I have had 2 drum kits that had the tape method that the wrap was totally cracking and falling of off the shells. heres some '96 premiers that had the wrap installed with the tape method from the factory. Decide for yourselves.......http://www.vintagedrumforum.com/showthread.php?t=12503&highlight=premiers
Here's a pic of a 13" 6ply Ludwig tom I had a few years ago, the 12 had the same problem, these were factory glued on originally, look at the shell where the wrap came off, yikes!
Tape has one ENORMOUS advantage over glue, which is...if, during the rewrap, you screw up the postioning and/or edges (and its happened to me) , the tape allows you to quickly pull everything part and start again. The glue? Youre Screwed.Also, lets say that in 3 years, a tape job does come loose. So?? Take 2 hours and retape it. I also think that the damage glue does to a shell causes far more problems than the tape does. Use the super sticky tape, use enough of it to make a strong bond and I think youre ahead of the game, I really do. One other thing: Lets say, you decide to sell pieces of your set, but keep (for example) the bass drum to use it with another set. Well, with the tape, you can, in 2 hours, change the wrap yet again, to match your other set.With Glue, youre looking at several days of stripping, sanding and yeeccchhh.
Well if you screw up while glueing on the wrap, then you dont know what your doing
As has already been pointed out, it really doesn't matter which you use on your 6 ply Ludwig floor Tom. It's such a ridiculously thick and stiff shell, that anything short of concrete will not impact the sound. It is what it is. But, this was a general statement made within a different thread and that includes ALL varieties of shell builds. The thin 3ply shells of old vintage drums really don't handle the tape method all that well. You are more than welcome to do as you please ... but, you did ask. That was the purpose of your original post, was it not? ... whether there was in fact a discernible difference between utilizing the tape method and the glue method for securing the wrap to a shell?The answer will always remain attached to the individual shell being wrapped. 3ply really needs to be professionally glued. The various plies of the Gretsch and Rogers should also be glued. These thinner shells vibrate like mad. The thicker and stiffer shells really don't have much to lose. 6ply thick Luddy shells don't matter. 5ply Slingy shells could go either way. 8ply Rogers shells are also seriously thick.
Yes it was my original post and I appreciate all the responses, but I chose to go the tape method and I'm not regreting it one bit. After seeing what glue does to a shell and having played the drum, I see no point in glueing wrap to a shell. The tom, believe it or not, sounds better than it did. I played a couple gigs over the weekend and the drum was thunderous.
As far as the wrap cracking or the seems lifting, well, I think we have all seen that even happen to wraps that are glued, I think it's more to do with how one takes care of there drums as opposed to if it's taped or glued, that's just my opinion, thanks.
I did a complete 5 piece Ludwig 6 ply kit wrapped with JamminSams wrap and tape. Turned out GREAT and sounded amazing. Sold 'em for more than I paid, so I didnt lose a cent. Win-Win, 'cause the buyer LOVED the shells.
Point is, those 6 ply drums seem to be made for this method. I checked out your updated pics. Great job! That floor tom looks slick.
Retaping a job is duplication of effort. This might be fine if you actually like performing complete disassembly, but not much else, and certainly NOT if you are doing it for someone else.
Wrap needs to be glued down 100% to the substrate and NOT move, in order to prevent possible subsequent wrinkling, checking and cracking. The "edge tape" method, therefore is totally bogus in my opinion. 100% PSA backing is better, but I haven't seen a PSA that doesn't creep as it ages. There are other pro's who use it and who I respect e.g. Eric Sooy and Dennis Stauffer, but I've been using contact cement forever and have never had a finish lifting or separation issue, so I will stick with it.
Yes, you get one shot with contact cement, but it's all in the prep and accuracy. I say do the job the right way once. Not the wrong way twice.
