I talked to the owner of Jammin Sam personally today, he said that glueing could cause the wrap to crack because of how the glue interacts with the wood and that all the big companies now use tape. He also said there would be no difference in sound, that it's not the wrap, but the shell itself that dictates the tone of the drum.

I talked to a friend who had re-wrapped his vintage Slingerland kit using the tape method from Jammin Sam, he told me he heard no difference in the sound and that the wrap looked great.

I ordered the wrap and I'm going to use tape, I'll let you know how it comes out next week, thanks for all the responses.

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[FONT="Comic Sans MS"][COLOR="Purple"]Yes, Sam can be VERY persuasive on the phone. When I tried to order wrap from him with the intention of gluing it on (mod Orange) he convinced me to buy the hi-bond tape. He simply won't let me buy HIS wrap & then use the glue method. :D

I have built 5 kits in the last year: 1 was Arctic Oyster '69 Ludwigs(Precision Method), another was Mod Orange 2001 Ludwig Accent Custom(Jammin' Sam method). Stay tuned, I will add some pics this evening and do the comparison.

Here are a few of MY observations:

1. I do not believe that the double-stick tape approach will hinder the resonance of a drum. I consider this a myth, as would JohnnyRingo.

2. I DO believe that in the 'long run', a wrapped drum will weather the elements much better and it WILL outlive a tape job if exposed to harsh elements and gigging. But the wrap method is a 'built to last' mentality that barely exists in our culture anymore.

3. I also agree that most major manufacturers are now using the tape method which (a) saves time & $$ (b) doesn't change sonic properties

4. I think that in the future "higher end" manufacturers and drum builders will use glue method & anything lower on the totem pole will be double-taped. (this may already be the practice of the industry, but I am not an "industry spokesman", just an elf that won't stop making drums

5. THE MOST IMPORTANT CONSIDERATION OF ALL is this: vintage drums are better with the glue method because they are more prone to inconsistencies, anomalies, the Ludwig Hump, etc. Not to mention how they get carved up a little when some 30-50 yr old wrap is removed. :o

Modern drums of 20 yrs or less have probably been covered in the tape method already are MUCH more likely to be a nice smooth cylinder that wrap will cling to with almost no air pockets or loose spots.

CONCLUSION: When in Rome, do as the Romans. Consider the type of wrap you are removing, as that should be your first choice for your appraoch to re-wrapping the shell.

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I agree with jaye,

Glue the wrap to the shell and use the tape on the overlap. Sam is very convincing on his tape theroy. Order the wrap from him and the glue from precision, and Sam wont argue with you. Be sure and use the adhesive promoter that sams sends out with his wrap and tape. I glue the wrap on all the shells and then get the adhesive promoter and wipe all the overlap areas and stick them down all at the same time, be sure to put the seam where it will end up under the lugs, This helps keep the seams down and also hides part of the seam.

Sage advice from a noted builder.... I would heed.

I used a commercial grade laminate spray glue in 03 on a set I reworked.

Joints are tight today. No ripples, no pulls. I think tape is a waste of time.

After seeing what glue does to a drum shell, I can't believe anyone would want glue all over any shell. In my opinion, after using the tape method, anyone who uses glue because they think it will make a drum sound better then taping is wasting there time.

maybe you can use a double tape, pick the thin one. It will bond perfectly easy to peel when you need to replace the wrap.

As has already been pointed out, it really doesn't matter which you use on your 6 ply Ludwig floor Tom. It's such a ridiculously thick and stiff shell, that anything short of concrete will not impact the sound. It is what it is.

But, this was a general statement made within a different thread and that includes ALL varieties of shell builds. The thin 3ply shells of old vintage drums really don't handle the tape method all that well. You are more than welcome to do as you please ... but, you did ask. That was the purpose of your original post, was it not? ... whether there was in fact a discernible difference between utilizing the tape method and the glue method for securing the wrap to a shell?

The answer will always remain attached to the individual shell being wrapped.

3ply really needs to be professionally glued.

The various plies of the Gretsch and Rogers should also be glued.

These thinner shells vibrate like mad.

The thicker and stiffer shells really don't have much to lose.

6ply thick Luddy shells don't matter.

5ply Slingy shells could go either way.

8ply Rogers shells are also seriously thick.

:) Hey everyone...In a 1991 history of Ludwig drum company by Paul Schmidt, anyway, Bill sr. was quoted as saying that wrap has no effect on the sound of a drum.

I to have spoke with Sam on the wrap and tape method, he is very convensing on the thing. I have always glued with no problems, but I tried this method on a 70's Mach players set. Turned out well, I'm just really concerned with the test of time and conditions of where the drums are. They're in my climate controlled house right now, but when they're sold where will they be, you know, hot and cold, stored in a shed. Just don't want something I restored and sold to go bad on a man or woman in time. Just a thought.......Joe