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What do you think of using steel wool to "clean up" old stands, lugs etc.?

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Just wondering why no one has mentioned the idea of just having a chrome shop re-plate the pieces?

Is that the ultimate sin, never to be mentioned, or something?? :confused:

When cars are restored, it's very common for chrome parts, such as bumpers, hubcaps, etc to be re-plated, or sometimes even replaced all together.

Why would we not repair the finish on hardware?

Current gigging set:
Recent Ludwig Accent 13/16/18/26, (in Silver Sparkle), "updated" 70's Acrolite with cast batter hoop and Trick strainer/butt

Cymbals:
Zildjian K Custom Ride, Dream (Bliss and Contact) crashes and hats, and a Sabian Swish/China.

Other stuff:
60's Ludwig Champagne Sparkle "Traveler's Club Date", under construction. Click Here
70's Acrolite (under RE-construction)
Two 1960's mahogany 32" Ludwig bass drums with Imperial lugs.
Posted on 13 years ago
#21
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Some items can be replated. Some items are made of metals that may not be able to stand the replating process. Mechanical parts that are assembled with "permanent" fasteners like rivets or press fittings may be impractical to replate.

Posted on 13 years ago
#22
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From SkyDog75

Some items can be replated. Some items are made of metals that can't stand the replating process. Mechanical parts that are assembled with "permanent" fasteners like rivets or press fittings may be impractical to replate.

I thought about that... Would it be too difficult to source similar or same rivets to replace the originals?

Edit: Also, if they were able to plate it the first time, why can't it be re-plated???

Current gigging set:
Recent Ludwig Accent 13/16/18/26, (in Silver Sparkle), "updated" 70's Acrolite with cast batter hoop and Trick strainer/butt

Cymbals:
Zildjian K Custom Ride, Dream (Bliss and Contact) crashes and hats, and a Sabian Swish/China.

Other stuff:
60's Ludwig Champagne Sparkle "Traveler's Club Date", under construction. Click Here
70's Acrolite (under RE-construction)
Two 1960's mahogany 32" Ludwig bass drums with Imperial lugs.
Posted on 13 years ago
#23
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We dont have a plating shop in my town. I have researched it quite a bit. I thought about buying the stuff and doing it in my garage, but i discovered that if anyone in the neighborhood finds out your chroming stuff then you'll get the EPA all over your a$$. It is very regulated where this can be done, but my shop is zoned for this sort of thing, so its still an option. When they chrome plate something they nickel plate it 1st, then chrome it.

1960's SONOR 12-16-20-14 blue slate pearl
1968 LUDWIG 12-13-16-22-14Sky blue P
1972 LUDWIG 12-13-16-22-14BlueVistalite
1972 LUDWIG 12-13-16-22-(14 impostor)BlackPanther "SOLD"
1964 Ludwig Oyster Black Pearl 22-12-13-16-14Supra "SOLD"
1969 LUDWIG 12-13-16-22-14 Citrus Mod "SOLD"
1969 LUDWIG Sexto-Plus 8-1 0-12-13-14-15-16-20-20-14 Silver Sparkle
60's Majestic Delux 12-13-16-22-14 red pearl
2009 Homemade Kids 8-10-13-16-12 Orange Sparkle
24 kits, 80 Snares, 65 Cymbals
Don't tell my wife!
Posted on 13 years ago
#24
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Speaking from over 2 decades of cleaning up chrome on vintage kits, I've always used 0000 steel wool with NO issues. If 0000 steel wool is causing scratches, then the chrome plating must be incredible thin and soft to begin with. There are times I might have to use 000 steel wool on a stubborn spot, but I don't use allot of force. Pictures are provided from a Rogers 1967 Londoner kit I cleaned up years ago.

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Posted on 13 years ago
#25
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From SkyDog75

But if I can get the same part just as clean and just as easily with a non-abrasive cleaner, why should I use an abrasive?

What "non abrasive cleaner" are you speaking of?

"Always make sure your front bottom BD lugs clear the ground!"
Posted on 13 years ago
#26
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About a year ago, a friend tipped me off to what a great product Turtle Wax Chrome Polish and Rust Remover was. Only trouble was that it was not sold in Canada anymore for some reason. I was lucky enough to find some on ebay though and, gave it a try. I was very pleased! For tougher areas, a second application was necessary. My old Stars and Supremes glisten! Nothing is going to transform chrome to factory newness but, I find this product well worth the money.

Just a drummer who loves all things about vintage drums! Nothing more, nothing less.
Posted on 13 years ago
#27
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I've used Flitz and aluminum foil with great results. Went back and checked it out with magnifying glass and I am happy with the results.

Of course we all have different standards......

Get off! Get your f**in' clothes and get off! Right now! Pull the f**in' bus over! -Buddy Rich
Posted on 13 years ago
#28
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I hand polished every nickel part on a 26,13,16 and 5-1/2 RK set a few months ago with Blue Magic metal cleaner.....same idea as Flitz/Simichrone etc.......

It took me 20-30 HOURS .....maybe more........to do the kit!

If I'm making $200-300 on a Luddy kit,ain't no way I can spend that amount of time on it!

I offered up a challenge on here......so far no takers.......

clean a nasty, Ludwig, 60's chrome lug with a SOS pad,and reply back here your findings.Coffee Break2

"Always make sure your front bottom BD lugs clear the ground!"
Posted on 13 years ago
#29
Posts: 2212 Threads: 95
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What is the difference between steel wool and sos? I know what you mean about cleaning a kit, I probably had close to 40 hours polishing up my wmp Slingys. I just scored a Ludwig super classic in blue sparkle and after I clean it up I am gong to stop collecting and just play what I have!

Posted on 13 years ago
#30
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