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WFL Tom Need Advice!

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Well I think I found a tom tonight. Unfortunately I kinda got burned in the process! Bought this 13" WFL tom tonight. The guy said he got it really cheap and wasnt a collector or that interested in it and if I wanted to buy it from him I could. He said it was in good shape and that the lugs and hoops were there. He said it didn't have any wrap on it though. He said he covered it with some shelving paper just to have something on it but it wasnt glued down just wrapped around it. When I showed up to get it the stamp date said 1956 on it. There was no badge but the inside looked good to me. I didn't really do much else other than pay him $40 for it. It didn't have the lugs I was hoping for but just the same I figured for $40 it was worth taking home this shell. Got home took it apart and found this. LIVE AND LEARN!!! At least the lugs look really good on this drum.

Is the wood and seem fixable? I am not as concerned with the holes where the dampener goes. Can anyone help direct me?

Posted on 13 years ago
#1
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Old Club Date! Cool...anyway, it is possible, but it will take some work. Not a lot, but you will need to basically inject some glue or epoxy in the voids and clamp it down. There is more to it, but the use of common sense will get the result you want. If you want more in depth understanding, anyone here can offer the proper technique.

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Posted on 13 years ago
#2
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Where do I start? Should I strip all the paint off and then glue or epoxy?

Posted on 13 years ago
#3
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From ec_curtis

Where do I start? Should I strip all the paint off and then glue or epoxy?

I would only strip the paint off if it is flaking off already, or if you are planning on repainting it. If you are going to cover it with a wrap, then I would say just lightly sand the paint, but only after you fix the issues with the outer ply of wood. I would use carpenters glue and a surgical suringe to inject the glue into the hard to get to areas that are splitting, then clamp the affected areas down with blocks and clamps until the glue sets, then do the sanding of the shell. I wouldn't use epoxy as it sets up too fast and if not clamped down correctly can cause lumps in the shell after it sets up. Carpenters glue is used exactly for what you are working on....wood. Ask any carpenter/woodworker worth his salt.....use the carpenters wood glue.

Posted on 13 years ago
#4
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Can I get a syringe just from the store? How do I make sure the blocks I use to clamp down the glued area to not stick?

Posted on 13 years ago
#5
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You can put a piece of wax paper between the wood blocks or even packaging tape. You can get a syringe at walgreens. Get the biggest one they have or you can get one at a feed store for horses that has much larger needle. JUst tell them what your doing. If you have a old pos drum shell to use for your wood blocks, use a piece of that.

1960's SONOR 12-16-20-14 blue slate pearl
1968 LUDWIG 12-13-16-22-14Sky blue P
1972 LUDWIG 12-13-16-22-14BlueVistalite
1972 LUDWIG 12-13-16-22-(14 impostor)BlackPanther "SOLD"
1964 Ludwig Oyster Black Pearl 22-12-13-16-14Supra "SOLD"
1969 LUDWIG 12-13-16-22-14 Citrus Mod "SOLD"
1969 LUDWIG Sexto-Plus 8-1 0-12-13-14-15-16-20-20-14 Silver Sparkle
60's Majestic Delux 12-13-16-22-14 red pearl
2009 Homemade Kids 8-10-13-16-12 Orange Sparkle
24 kits, 80 Snares, 65 Cymbals
Don't tell my wife!
Posted on 13 years ago
#6
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After seeing all Poppys awesome work he inspired me to get back to my WFL tom.

I glued the bad spots on my tom yesterday afternoon. I got a syringe and used liquid nails. Was liquid nails an ok choice? Today I went to see the results. (See pics below) I noticed a couple spots that I maybe should have got but I don't think it will harm the drums sound in the long run.

My questions now are:

1. There are a few areas where I need to fill in gaps. No holes just little areas that are missing the top layer of shell. What should I use for a filler?

2. Do I sand before I fill the gaps or after? Or both?

Really thankful for the help! Merry Christmas!

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Posted on 13 years ago
#7
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If it's raw wood you shouldn't have to sand it. Just get a good wood filler or you can use epoxy. Which ever you use, keep your eye on it and when it begins to harden you can easily sand it, if you use wood filler you can spread it with a credit card or the like and you wont have much to sand. I like the tightbond wood glue personally, epoxy in some instances. You can get 1 minute, 5 minute or 60 minute exopy. The 1 snd 5 minute come in a little syringe that mixes itself as it comes through the syringe. it is really easy to use. 60 minute epoxy comes in 2 bottles, you squirt equal amounts of each in a little cup and mix it with a stick and then dab it in the repair area. Im not a scientist, but the 60 minute might be a little stronger and might last longer. Wood filler is the easiest to use IMO.

1960's SONOR 12-16-20-14 blue slate pearl
1968 LUDWIG 12-13-16-22-14Sky blue P
1972 LUDWIG 12-13-16-22-14BlueVistalite
1972 LUDWIG 12-13-16-22-(14 impostor)BlackPanther "SOLD"
1964 Ludwig Oyster Black Pearl 22-12-13-16-14Supra "SOLD"
1969 LUDWIG 12-13-16-22-14 Citrus Mod "SOLD"
1969 LUDWIG Sexto-Plus 8-1 0-12-13-14-15-16-20-20-14 Silver Sparkle
60's Majestic Delux 12-13-16-22-14 red pearl
2009 Homemade Kids 8-10-13-16-12 Orange Sparkle
24 kits, 80 Snares, 65 Cymbals
Don't tell my wife!
Posted on 13 years ago
#8
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From poppy79424

If it's raw wood you shouldn't have to sand it. Just get a good wood filler or you can use epoxy. Which ever you use, keep your eye on it and when it begins to harden you can easily sand it, if you use wood filler you can spread it with a credit card or the like and you wont have much to sand. I like the tightbond wood glue personally, epoxy in some instances. You can get 1 minute, 5 minute or 60 minute exopy. The 1 snd 5 minute come in a little syringe that mixes itself as it comes through the syringe. it is really easy to use. 60 minute epoxy comes in 2 bottles, you squirt equal amounts of each in a little cup and mix it with a stick and then dab it in the repair area. Im not a scientist, but the 60 minute might be a little stronger and might last longer. Wood filler is the easiest to use IMO.

Thanks Poppy! So let it dry and then sand it? What grit sand paper should I use?

I was going to remove the paint that is already falling off as well. Do I do that before or after filling in the spots?

Sorry for all the questions I just dont want to ruin the shell and haven't had much experience with this type of stuff?

Posted on 13 years ago
#9
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Are you going to paint, stain, or wrap it? Rewraping a drum doesnt require near as much preparation. Painting takes more prep and staining takes much more prep.

1960's SONOR 12-16-20-14 blue slate pearl
1968 LUDWIG 12-13-16-22-14Sky blue P
1972 LUDWIG 12-13-16-22-14BlueVistalite
1972 LUDWIG 12-13-16-22-(14 impostor)BlackPanther "SOLD"
1964 Ludwig Oyster Black Pearl 22-12-13-16-14Supra "SOLD"
1969 LUDWIG 12-13-16-22-14 Citrus Mod "SOLD"
1969 LUDWIG Sexto-Plus 8-1 0-12-13-14-15-16-20-20-14 Silver Sparkle
60's Majestic Delux 12-13-16-22-14 red pearl
2009 Homemade Kids 8-10-13-16-12 Orange Sparkle
24 kits, 80 Snares, 65 Cymbals
Don't tell my wife!
Posted on 13 years ago
#10
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