I'm curious about these or the C-200 series, mainly because of the funky wraps they have and I've heard the quality control was better than the smaller stencil brands (sans hardware). What are the bearing edges like on these? Fat/Slingerland style, sharper like a Rogers or an in between thing like a Ludwig or Gretsch? 3 ply? Head fit issues? Trying to get an idea of what the tuning range is on a 20/12/14 set. Thanks.
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Yamaha D-20 Drums
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Threads: 62
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Posted on 8 years ago
#1
Posts: 1427
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My kit is great and the same sizes.
All birch, the grandfather of the recording custom. Bearing edges are no magical thing but they tune up easily with modern heads. Being birch they have a wide range and lower fundamental than maple. My kit was not babied and came back easily.
Made by Sake so round, slanted seam shells just like later 9000 and RC drums.
Cobalt Blue Yamaha Recording Custom 20b-22b-8-10-12-13-15-16f-18f
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
Posted on 8 years ago
#2
Posts: 164
Threads: 7
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This is a D-20 kit with Suede Emperors on it.
The biggest noticeable difference in the D and C series is that the kick on the D has 8 lugs and 6 on the C which makes tuning a bit harder (at least for me) and harder to keep, but sound wise my D and C kits didn't differ that much at all.
Posted on 8 years ago
#3
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