Ok, after checking my 60s solid shell slingerland snare on a level surface with the hoops off to See how level it is, it does rock slightly on both sides. When pressing down on one side, the other side looks like it's raised easily 1/8" and vice versa when looking at it and then looking at a tape measure. I don't know for sure if it's got worse than when I first got it but worryingly I've had this one, and another I have in a small hot room and both have an annoying overtone( I have changed heads though on this one). Anyway the drum is extremely difficult to tune always. Now the question: what is the most that can be done ( if anything) for the drum, to 'level' it out without actually having the bearing edges re-cut. For instance can it be sanded or something ( by someone who knows how to do it) without affecting originality and dropping the value- anything. I know this question has been frequently asked on a lot of forums. While I greatly respect and appreciate originality really I need this drum to be my player drum.
What can you 'sensibly' do for poor bearing edges
Take it to the guy that repaired the ply separation, Tell him just what you said here, He should easily be able to level the shell. if you re cutting the bearing edges stay with what is already factory angles.
If he levels the shell I presume by just sanding, will he then have to shape it to the original profile? Yes I would definately keep to the original profile.
If he levels the shell I presume by just sanding, will he then have to shape it to the original profile? Yes I would definately keep to the original profile.
He may have to.
Bent drums...a painful subject. My original circa 1970 Gretsch concert tom set had a 12 that part of the edge was actually "rolled over" towards the interior of the drum, making it impossible to tune. After being trued, will your drum continue to bend? If you do nothing, it is unplayable. If I was in your position I'd have it trued up and the edges cut to factory spec. I don't care if it's a 2500$ drum- if it's unplayable, to me it's worth nothing but it's parts. But, I am not a collector- I play my drums. A collector would probably disagree.
Ok, cheers, and I've been reading a zillion posts that say oh don't do that but this maybe is like a bit of fresh air, I'm thinking I should just get them done now.
If I do which I probably will I hope to god it does help the sound.
If you are careful enough you can do it yourself... Levelling is easy, 4 sheets of sand paper fixed to a flat surface and you use a twisting circular motion... (I start by use of a crayon on the bearing edge to keep track of the progress). Then use the existing original edge profile to recreate the sanded section/sections by hand sanding.. 1 hour job for an amateur like myself...
Cheers
John
'69 Slingerland Hollywood Ace
'75 Rogers Dynasonic 6.5 x 14, 10 lug COB
'77-78 Slingerland 6.5 x 14, 10 lug COB
'78-79 Slingerland 5 1/4 x14 8 lug COB
'79 Biman 5 1/4, Acrolite
'82 Slingerland 5 1/4 x 14. Festival COS
'84 Tama MasterCraft Superstar 6.5 x 14, 10 lug Rosewood
'98 Slingerland (Music YO) 6" 10 Lug Maple.. NOS
Zildjian, Sabian , UFIP & Paiste mix.
Yes I've read about this, but I couldn't trust myself to do it. There is a actually a local drum maker that I think could do it.
I think, and other members should chime in if I'm wrong, that calf heads with flesh hoops were much more forgiving to the inconsistencies of a slightly un-true bearing edge than plastic heads are. A calf head will seat itself after time unlike plastic. This drum probably had calf heads that did just that. What do the pros say? I'd also agree that truing an edge is not rocket science- I have trued many shells and made concert toms into double-headed drums with good results.
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