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WeldOn4 for fixing Vistalites

Posts: 163 Threads: 29

OK, so I have been using Weld-On 4 to fix cracks in Vistalites... It's supposed to zip right into cracks and chemically weld it all in a short time... My experience it, put it on, let it dry overnight, polish it, and the crack doesn't grow. Good. I didn't know how well this stuff worked, I just knew that it did, and I havn't gone out to seek the worst of Vistas to fix or anything....

Today I had an opportunity to see if it really worked on things that were split and broken. One of the flourescent lights in my basement blew, and while changing the bulb, I dropped the cover and it broke... into several pieces. It's a cheap thin acrylic.. I started looking for SuperGlue.. then I remembered... I should try this Weld-on stuff. So I held 2 pieces together tightly, put a drop on and SAW it race into the crack.. (clear makes it easier to see) Held it for a minute until it got a little cloudy, and it held.. I kept putting the pieces together and it actually worked.. It was OK to hang back up in a half hour...

So the verdict is... Yeah....... this stuff really bonds plastics... and it doesn't bond your hands together like glues can.

I may start using solvent welds instead of glue for other things around here.. beats glues... and it's got some flex like it did before it broke.

Posted on 14 years ago
#1
Posts: 35 Threads: 4

Godd info,thanks a bunch.I work for a company that is the world leader in medical models.Sawbones.com We use all kinds of glue and plastic crap.I'll be tellin' the boys come Monday.flowers2

Posted on 14 years ago
#2
Posts: 163 Threads: 29

I'm done with super glue for anything that this will work on... Solvent welding is way more convenient. It's a strong smell though.

Posted on 14 years ago
#3
Posts: 16 Threads: 1

This is a great example of crossover between hobbies. I also do railroad modeling and use "solvent welding" extensively in building models. There are a couple of things to keep in mind when doing this: 1) always handle solvents in a properly ventilated area or while wearing a respirator, preferably using latex gloves as most solvents are toxic and volatile 2) test the solvent to be used on scrap or a hidden area first to make sure that the finish will withstand the procedure, 3) use the minimum amount of solvent. (this technique works by dissolving the shell material and allowing it to reform upon the evaporation of the solvent; if you use too much solvent, you will distort the shell), 4) make sure all parts are absolutely clean prior to applying the solvent as any dirt will be permanently bonded to the material, and 5) remember there is no second chance, once the solvent is applied, it will dissolve whatever plastic it touches.

Posted on 14 years ago
#4
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