mac - super-easy repair...

a. Strip off the hoops, heads.

b. Put a piece of painter's tape on the wrap, up against the seam, (opposite the seam, not 'on' it,) to catch any squeeze-out from the contact cement.

c. Use a small brush to apply contact cement to both inside surfaces, wrap and shell. Allow 15 - 20 minutes for the cement to get tack-dry.

d. Press down the seam and use a strip of molding, or a yardstick to clamp it down. You can use cheap-o spring-clamps at each end to hold the wood strip in good contact with the seam. See photo:

[IMG]http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n632/PurdieShuffle/bw1.jpg[/IMG]

Wait 24 hours before removing clamps. Done! Seam will be good for another 20 years. Easy repair.

John

Yeah,

I know technically how to do it but I wanted some input on the materials.

Is the 3m recommended by Precision okay to use on this wrap?

It would be a tragedy to mess this wrap up with the wrong material. guitar3

John,

I may have the identical seam issue to address with a 20" bass drum. How do you keep any excess contact cement from coming into contact with the strip of moulding or yardstick that's going to be clamped down on the wrap? My greatest fear is that the moulding or yardstick will end up stuck to the wrap itself after the clamps are removed.

I did a similar repair like that. I did almost the same as John is telling you to use except I put the painters tape on both side of the seam. I used a different glue. I used Beacon's Multi-Grip glue. It's clear and can be dripped into the seam and then gently spread with a toothpick. Mine has been holding for 2 years now. It is the only seam I have repaired though and John has probably done many.

If you let the 3M cement cure for 15 to 20 minutes and you don't over apply the cement, then you will have little to no excess squeeze out.

That's a sweet 14 x 14 floor tom. :)

-Tim

Cheat the stick back 1/16" from the edge. Not much, if any, squeeze out (as, Tim correctly advises,) if you apply the contact cement right. Just don't over-do it with the glue.

mac - the 3M stuff is fine. You can also use Elmer's Carpenters glue! I recommend the contact cement because that's how the wrap was originally applied. But I've done the repair with Crazy Glue, Elmers', Gorilla Snot, etc. etc. etc.

John

Thanks, John!

There used to be a green contact cement used for applying formica countertops to the wood cabinet bases. You apply it to both sides and let it get almost dry before mating the two sides. Be careful positioning, because once they touch, they are bonded forever! Because the cement is pretty dry before the parts make contact, there is no ooze.

I'm getting closer.

The seam on the 14"x14" is clamped and setting up.

The new wrap on the 20" is clamped and setting up.

The new wrap on the 12" is done.

The new wrap on the snare is done.

Cool1