There's a slim chance that I might be picking up a late '50s duco kit. I'm wondering what you "experts" out there suggest in regard to cleaning and polishing the finish on these?
Also, what's the consensus on addressing small chips, scratches or scuffs on the paint? Do most of you do any "touch-up" or leave the shells "as is"?
Any words of wisdom would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks!
OS - post some photos of the kit when you get it. Once we see the over-all condition of the finish, we'll be able to make suggestions in regard to how best to proceed.
I can't wait to see it! I'm a huge fan of old Duco kits.
John
OS - post some photos of the kit when you get it. Once we see the over-all condition of the finish, we'll be able to make suggestions in regard to how best to proceed.I can't wait to see it! I'm a huge fan of old Duco kits.John
Hey John,
Thanks for your input. You might recall that I've got a 2-piece Slingy black-gold duco kit from the late '50s (see pic) and was hoping to add the matching toms. Unfortunately, that search didn't work out for me. I'm currently working on a possible transaction to obtain a complete kit in that identical color combination. If I do I'll have a few pieces to sell down the road. I did notice that the current snare I've got has the 3-point strainer while the snare included with the kit I'm currently considering has the Rapid strainer. Both are 8-lugged snares with rim clips.
The kit I'm looking at has a 22x12 BD, 9x13 RT, 5.5x14 SD and 14x14 FT. The rack tom's got a little snare rash and there's some scratches and scuffs on most of the drums, although not too bad, especially considering the age of the kit itself. Some of the shells also have small areas in which the paint appears to have "smears" (right word?). I'm probably simply being way too picky but cosmetic appearance always seems to be an issue for me.
I'm also wondering whether the calfskin heads should be kept on the shells when the drums are being played or whether modern heads would be more appropriate for playing purposes.
Again, I'm open to any and all suggestions!
If you're going to play them out, you'll want to replace the more valuable and less reliable tuning-wise calf heads with modern plastic ones. Calf is subject to environmental conditions; temperature, humidity level etc. You don't want to be messing with tuning drums -during- a gig. Great way to get yourself fired from the band! Modern heads will last longer, stay in tune better, and you won't end up with your head in the oven if you break one, or if a drunk blows chunks on them.
John
If you're going to play them out, you'll want to replace the more valuable and less reliable tuning-wise calf heads with modern plastic ones. Calf is subject to environmental conditions; temperature, humidity level etc. You don't want to be messing with tuning drums -during- a gig. Great way to get yourself fired from the band! Modern heads will last longer, stay in tune better, and you won't end up with your head in the oven if you break one, or if a drunk blows chunks on them.John
Thanks for the advice, John. Do you believe that the old Slingy shells from the late '50s would require oversized heads? Just wonderin' based on comments I've read regarding Gretsch RB shells and Slingy RK shells.
I'm not real knowledgeable about Slingerland, one of the weak spots in my mental vintage drum database. One of the Slingy experts will chime in for you.
John
Oldschool you Student model radio king is a 3 ply shell plastic heads will fut it just fine and sound awesome. the solid shell Rk's are what you mostly have to worry about.
