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Tuning my Pearls

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Time to show off my ignorance!!!

I have an old '60's set of Pearls. Before I touched anything on em, they sounded perfect. I wanted to clean em up real good cause some of the hardware was showing it's age so I pulled the heads and cleaned the hardware. Every since then...they have been extremely difficult to tune. I sent the rack and floor toms to Bernie Stone to have new edges cut thinking that was the problem. Turns out it wasn't 100% but the edges helped. I got em to hold a very low tuning (which I suppose isn't that bad), but I wanted to have em tuned up a little higher...more around the middle of the range~ish instead of uber low. The heads were not beaten in or showing any signs of needing replaced...even though I typically replace heads any time I take em off (and that may be my whole issue).

Any time I try to bring the overall tune up on either head, the tone goes flat and lifeless. There is no ring, no resonance, no singing, just a flat attack thud. I tried tuning the batter heads with no reso, tuned them with a loose reso, and a tighter reso with no difference. With these I am trying a slightly different tuning than I am used to...is that my problem? Or are all the heads just dead and in need of replacement?

Posted on 12 years ago
#1
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No ignorance at all. The only dumb question is the one you are unwilling to ask.

Let's start with the drums, these would be a stencil kit and as such are not the greatest shells. You should still be able to get some really useful tones out of these, especially with new edges. What kind of edges did you just have cut? Did you have both batter and reso edges cut? Are you sure your shells are in round? What sizes are they?

Next, when you say you want them tuned a little higher, are you thinking "60's and early 70's pop-rock" tight or "be-bop" tight? What heads do you have on currently (batter and reso)? You say they are still in good shape. How old are both the batter and reso heads?

This is by no means a hard and fast rule, but generally older heads that have been stretched over time tend to be less useful in the lower tuning range. As to out of round shells I have found that, if they can tune at all, are generally most successful in their lower range. That is only my experience. Others may have other thoughts.

I think that once we have some of the above questions answered, we will be more likely to be able to help you.

tnsquint
Very proud owner of a new Blaemire Snare 6.5 x 14 made by Jerry Jenkins "Drumjinx"
Posted on 12 years ago
#2
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Whenever you modify edges at all (even minimally) you must use NEW heads. This is because the old heads were seated (I think that is the right term?) to fit the old edges and will not 'fit' your modified edges. This would likely explain your difficulties.

For this very reason, I have several drums that I have not been able to re-assemble because I am waiting to have my edges inspected and possibly re-cut. Everything clean and ready to go (even new heads waiting) and yet can not move forward. .................ok, well, this not not the same thing exactly, but I am making an illustration here. I will not place new heads on an edge that has not been inspected, nor will I put old heads on a freshly modified edge.

Also, I strongly recommend taking the bare shells and knocking them (with your fist) while hanging on your finger - in order to determine their natural pitch (note) that they ring at. Then, tune each head to that pitch and your drum will sing all day long. Then use any number of options for muffling, like studio rings that I prefer.

Out-of-round shells will be problematic, but they have to be VERY out-of-round in order to be significant. Many great sounded drums from all manufacturers exist that are OOR yet sound great. The Roundness issue is far less significant than the edges. I have learned this from consultation with experts as well as experience.

If money is an issue, I have heard that the economy heads sold by Jammin' Sams are a great value and sound good. These are single ply and single ply heads sound great on old MIJ kits.

John

I had a great day! Instead of sleeping in and wasting the day, I got up at 8 and I had all my slacking done by noon!

2Timothy1:7
Posted on 12 years ago
#3
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Ok...to answer some of the questions...

Bernie said the shells were good. When I removed the hoops before they seemed to have no out of round issues. Not to say I took a tape to them to see if that was the case, so I cannot really answer as to how true the round is...but I would assume Bernie would have noticed as I asked him to inspect them before he cut to see if they were worth while. He had an issue with some wood splintering on the floor tom but he fixed it. The repair was so small it took me a few hours to find it. That is the only known repair to the shells.

I am shooting for sort of the 70's tight sound than a pop rock sound. The rack tom is 13" and the floor tom is 16", so they aren't exactly going to tune super high, and I know that (which is great cause I don't want em that high really). Right now they are tuned as low as they can go because that is the only way I can get some sort of resonance, otherwise it's a lifeless thud.

The heads...they were on when I got the kit so true age is unknown. They were not dinged, dented, or really scuffed much so I left well enough alone initially. Hell, I even played two gigs with em. Really what initiated the whole process was the floor tom leg came loose so I decided to tighten all the hardware...may as well clean stuff up...thus I took stuff apart. The problems started when I tried tuning after cleanup and re-assembly. The reso heads are single ply with a Pearl script and that's all I know about em, I assume later model cheap replacement heads cause the Pearl logo from the early stuff is way different? The batters are clear two ply Remo's...not my cup of tea personally. Cost effective replacement heads are one thing, but since I only really need four heads for now I could pull from band funds and source some decent ones from GC. I never used single ply heads before either. I bought a whole set and blew through em in 45 minutes so I never got another...this was many moons ago on my first kit maybe 45 minutes after I put the whole thing together and realized I could play the drums somewhat. I went two ply every since more for durability than anything.

The edge specifics I left up to Bernie. I told him what I do and how I play. I left the rest up to his judgement which I trust. I told him I really like my Gretsch kit, that for whatever reason (I am a newb) it sounds good no matter how I tune it and I would like that same versatility out of these Pearls if at all possible. He did his work and I was able to tune...but only to the REALLY low side of things. They sound REALLY good (to me) tuned low but for this outfit I would like a little higher pop...thats all.

The more I think about it, the more I believe it is in the heads not seating properly as mentioned. I am going to get the resos and a set of single ply heads for the toms and give em a ride. For those two toms only...it shouldn't really put me out that much. I will dig around on here to see what others have said, but any recomendations for heads?

Posted on 12 years ago
#4
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Well that is interesting. You definitely want to replace the heads. I am assuming those reso heads have been around for ages and were cheap to begin with. There are some threads on the forum about head combinations that tend to work well on MIJ kits. Ther are a lot of guys here that had success with them.

I am not sure what to suggest head-wise. I am sure the reso head will be a single ply. Clear heads tend to give you a little more open sound with increased sustain. Coated heads would look more authentic and would darken the tone and decrease sustain somewhat. As to batter heads, that is tough based on your comments. You mentioned 'tighter', and 'seventies'. In the generic sense that is a bit of an oxymoron as so much of the seventies have been defined by the highly muffled concert tom sound. It seems like that is not what you are after. When you say tighter, that makes me think more in terms of a coated head. A single ply head will probably help add some life to the drum if you are not an overly hard hitter. You can always add a touch of Moongel to dampen things a bit.

Once you choose a head combination I would suggest starting with both heads at the same pitch and get that pitch as low as possible. Listen to the drum at that point. Then raise the pitch slightly on both heads a half step at a time. (maybe a quarter turn or less on each rod) Each time, check that the heads are in tune with themselves and with each other. Then listen to the drum and take note of the changes, not only in pitch but in tone and character. At some point the drum will choke or become lifeless as you have mentioned. Some drums have 'dead' zones in them and you can keep raising the pitch and eventually get an open tone again. You can try that and see. It doesn't happen very often to me though.

Once you have done that, you will have found the complete range of the drum. Tuning the heads to the same pitch will allow for the most sustain and lends itself to a really open and musical tone.

Next, I would drop back to the lowest possible pitch and get everything back in tune. As a side bar, I don't know if it really matters, but I always tune below my target pitch and then come back up to it so that the last thing I do to a tension rod is to tighten it and not loosen it. Anyway, once in tune, try raising the pitch of the reso head. I usually raise it a minor or major third. Listen to the drum again and notice the difference in the timbre or tone of the drum. Then begin raising the pitch on both heads a little at a time as before only now with the interval between heads.

Once you have done that, although time consuming, you will have a pretty good idea of what that drum will and will not do. You may find that these drums have a really limited tuning range. That would not be overly surprising. I think the goal for dealing with any drum or any kit is to find out what it does well and then let it do it. If what it does well is useful to you then great. If not, sell it or trade it and try something different. Every drum has it's own unique character. That's why some guys here are die hard Gretsch or Ludwig or Rogers, etc. fans; they have found a sound that they an relate to and it produces what they hear in their heads. That is also why many of us have different kits. They all have a unique and distinct sound. You will just need to figure out what the character is of your Pearl kit.

Good luck and let us know how it is working out. I hope this helps.

tnsquint
Very proud owner of a new Blaemire Snare 6.5 x 14 made by Jerry Jenkins "Drumjinx"
Posted on 12 years ago
#5
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Really that helps a lot. I spent a good 6 hours tuning my new heads on my Gretsch kit, so I know it can take some time to find what each drum will do. Anymore it's just fine tuning on that kit, has been for about 3 years.

This being my first vintage kit, I suppose I am a bit ignorant when describing the sound I am really shooting for. I had it real close before I pulled everything apart and I also believe new heads would have sealed the deal before, but it was sooooo cloooose that I had to rock it for a while. The Crossroad Kings is still changing and evolving our sound slightly as we go, so trying different head combinations for a while wouldn't be the worst thing I could do. Being a 3-piece, having a fuller drum sound on stage probably wouldn't hurt either. I also think it would revive my passion...as I myself have fallen flat as of late.

I ended up working on a trade to get a Harley most of the weekend and spent some time with my wife...so no progress made. Hopefully Wednesday I will get a breather before open mic and I can work on the rack tom a little to see if I can make it happy. I follow what you are sayin though tnsquint...I just never knew exactly how to put it into words to make sense to anyone else. It does take time, but when you are done it's good for a good long while.

Posted on 12 years ago
#6
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Kudos to you for pitting your wife ahead of drum tuning. Good thinking on your part! Let us know how you are progressing and if we can be of any additional help.

tnsquint
Very proud owner of a new Blaemire Snare 6.5 x 14 made by Jerry Jenkins "Drumjinx"
Posted on 12 years ago
#7
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