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Tips for tuning MIJ drums properly?

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From kellyj

I don't think anyone here would argue that there are/were great drum makers in Europe and else where. German Sonors are quality-wise, at the top. Premiers are are a work of art. No one is arguing against that.Simply put the largest market is/was North America with its wealth, once proud manufacturing ability and technological brilliance, and innovation, hence the popularity of American drums. Vintage American drums are popular the world over as are Sonor, Premier, Trixon and other companies because of innovation and quality. Nice rant Calfskin! Too bad the cheap labor was once in Japan and now resides in Asia. True our collective greed fuels supposed "junk" production of material at low wages for the world's poor. Unfortunately, the world works that way. Solutions?

the solution is to breakup the forum and have a category for Euro drums , otherwise they get put into a hodgepodge category and enthusiasts for those drums lose interest. why would someone interested in the development of Tacton for instance follow the forum or even contribute , when everytime they check up, there is the latest entry about some off the track bogus mij brand that was found at goodwill? i don't think that most of the makers of Ajax in 1965 as an example, were totally focused on pocketing as many Yankee dollars as was possible .they were interested in making the best drums possible and in that venture, they pretty much succeeded . i know how the world works---or has worked as it were. i think i am speaking for a number of members in suggesting that the forums be broken up and re defined.

Posted on 12 years ago
#21
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cn679, -Thanks for trying to bring this thread back to what is was -a thread about tuning MIJ drums. I really dont understand what this fighting over American versus Japanese or European drums is all about. If a drum looks good, sounds nice -then I like it.

Splitting up the forum in more sections would be a mistake. -The way it is now, I find myself reading about drums and brands that I never heard of before. Most of the techniques for restoring old drums have nothing to do with where they were manufactured.

After all, I´m not here on this forum to brag or argue. -I`m here to learn and share.

/Johan M

70's Slingerland, 13,14,18,24" Copper wrap
70's Pearl Wood/fiberglass 12,13,13,14,16,18,22,24" Red
70's Pearl Fiberglass shells 12,13,16, 22" White
70's Hayman, 13,14,16,22" Black
60's Hoshino, 13,16,20" WMP
2009 Ludwig element, 10,12,13,16,22" Orange
Posted on 12 years ago
#22
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Any discussion surrounding the restoration of any manufactured vintage drum, regardless of country of origin I believe (moderators correct me if I'm wrong) will have robust discussion and possible input on this forum. The curiosity level expressed here by some members, along with the desire to help, when an obscure brand is brought to the table is enormous. As Fortissimo states, "brands I have never heard of before" are discussed here.

The category "Vintage Non USA" drums is alive with Sonor, Premier, Trixon, Ajax, et al...The sheer volumes of US made and ubiquitous nature of MIJ, due to the quantities available, of course make up the bulk of the discussion but not at the expense or exclusion of the others. This may have been different had Ringo not opted for Ludwig. It could have been a much larger world of Premier vintage drums in that instance.

Air time is afforded all when brought forward. I have not witnessed in the several years being here, any disrespect for brands or people's questions except in the cases where mild abuse is put forward as discussion- "pouring gasoline" as a solution to tuning MIJ. This kind of disrespect is not tolerated very long.

-kellyj

"It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that swing..."
Posted on 12 years ago
#23
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For MIJ bass drums :

I have written this tip before but it works- take 2 old remo coated ambassador bass drum heads - on the inside of each - coat the inner side of the heads with a glue stick- cut out a 20" diameter round piece of felt- just like the size of a cymbal. Glue one to the inside surface of each of the heads and press flat, allow to dry. Nothing inside the bass drum is best just these customized old heads- tune her up. Perfect - controlled- slightly resonant, mellow- no over tones -- and almost free.

I don't use this on my stage kits but it is the bomb in my studio- try it out and let me know if you agree.

For MIJ snares: sand down or file out (deepen) the snare beds, smooth the bearing edges of both top and bottom. Coated Ambassadors are my preference. The thinnest, lightest snare wires you can find- often the cheapest old ones from Taiwan sound best- they are very light weight. USE THE INTERNAL MUFFLER- these are wonderful devices- it should touch the underside of the drum just very slightly.

best of luck to you

For info. & live schedule:
www.EricWiegmanndrums.com
*Odery Drums Japan endorser/ representative
*Japan Distributor of Vruk DrumMaster pedals
*D'Addario Japan Evans/Promark/Puresound
*Amedia Cymbals Japan

It's the journey not the destination.
Posted on 12 years ago
#24
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I have had great success using Osmo Polyx Hardwax Oil for years. I do a very light sand on the interior to wake up the grain. I then apply the Hardwax Oil and allow to dry. I do this for between three and six coats. It is simply the best product I've come across for the sound chamber for drums. It does amazing things to the MIJ drums.

Here's a link for you to read up on it.

http://www.environmentalgreenproducts.com/store/osmo-polyx-oil-the-original-hardwax-oil-pr-16136.html

Some artists have fiberglassed the interiors of their very nice drums to increase resonance. The Hardwax Oil has a very similar effect.

What Would You Do
Posted on 12 years ago
#25
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Rogersling,

looks very similar to Swedish Tung oil. Both are urethane/plastic products in an oil based emulsion for ease of apllication.

kellyj

"It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that swing..."
Posted on 12 years ago
#26
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I thought RogerSling's gasoline post was creative! Then as you read on to his more recent posts on here, he clearly has an appreciation for all drums, including MIJ.

I have not yet tried to do anything with the interiors of these MIJs. Do these treatments improve attack/projection at the expense of warmth?

Next time I get some "Old Bass drum heads, I will try OsakaBop's (is that his name?) glue-felt trick. I have sucessfully ised weatherstripping inside the resonant BD head. Smooth white Remo Ambassadors allow these to be seen (through) so then I just used a nice decorative pattern. The resulting sound achieved not quite the same but quite close to the effect of the felt rings/1.5 in. plastic double ply on the 'EQ3' Resonant heads.

See attached pic.

I had a great day! Instead of sleeping in and wasting the day, I got up at 8 and I had all my slacking done by noon!

2Timothy1:7
Posted on 12 years ago
#27
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Polyx HW Oil is a "green" product. I do believe they were mainly a European market until several years ago. That's when I jumped onboard. I will say that I've tung oiled some shells. It didn't have the same end product. I'm not informed enough to nail down precisely what the differences are, but they are there. I did a video years ago A-B'ing the before and after Polyx HW oil on a cheaper Asian "mahogany" kit. It did a pretty good job of showing the effect of the stuff. I'll see if I can locate it over the next week or so.

What Would You Do
Posted on 12 years ago
#28
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[QUOTE=johnbarber333;166313]I thought RogerSling's gasoline post was creative!

I am SO SORRY! I just noticed that it was not RogerSling, but Roger.Kelly that posted the gasoline post. My sincerest apologies to RogerSling!! Now I notice that Roger.Kelly has not posted here since. Nonetheless, it did not offend me at all- I know what I like and why I like it. FYI: I am also the owner of a '68 Slingerland BDP 5pc that includes my 2nd Slinger COB. But I appreciate ALL of my keeper kits (7 of them).

I had a great day! Instead of sleeping in and wasting the day, I got up at 8 and I had all my slacking done by noon!

2Timothy1:7
Posted on 12 years ago
#29
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Dude, I was all over that one. Thanks for the apology and the correction.

What Would You Do
Posted on 12 years ago
#30
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