Looking for opinions on the two traditional methods of drum wrap attaching when re-wrapping a drum. I've used them both, with greater success towards gluing the wrap to the shell. I've used the tape method twice and both times ended up having to "fix" the seams by gluing as the tape didn't hold long term. I've used the gluing method for years and have only had a couple of longterm failures due to the type of contact cement used. I used to use DAP Wildwood contact cement and used acetone on the seams to "melt" the seam together. Well....long term it turns out the glue fails.....this is after about 12-15 years of course. Now I use the 3M water based adhesive tha Precision Drum recommends. Been using it for about 5 years now with zero problems.....time will tell on how long it lasts past the 5 years.

Regardless of drum, brand there is not pat answer....Guys that want to make this easy are kidding themself...For a plastic finish, a glue like elmer white is amazing stuff....We used that at Slingerland....BUT WE PUT IT ON WITH ROLLERS OUT OF BUCKETS...LIKE PINTING A ROOM....WRAPPED THE DRUM SHELL IN A CORSET MADE FROM 2X4'S AND CANVAS AND CLAPPED THE 2X4 SHUT...THIS CREATED TENSION.FOR METAL ON WOOD...IT WAS A CONTACT CEMENT...THE METAL WAS ROUGHED WITH A SANDER FIRST AND THEN ROLLED ON A MACHINE TO CREATE AN OPEN CIRCLE... THE LAPS WERE GLUED WITH CONTACT CEMENTThe lap process for the plastic was done in the same manner but we used the Elmers glue for that...the peral never had to be sanded inside because the material had enough roughness to bind .