The red felt indicates 63-64 model drums. Very highly prized by collectors. If there is no pitting/flaking/loss of chrome on the shell, it is likely a COB. There should be a "B" stamped into the shell somewhere to indicate a brass shell. Look closely and carefully as you clean the shell.

Thanks Jonnistix. No "B" and no crimping in the shell. Pretty sure it's a Ludalloy but it really has no pitting. Really clean other than some very minor chips in the chrome. Most of the 63 and 64 stuff I have looked at seem to have the more common script logo on the arm. This has the Ludwig and Ludwig looking logo. I really want keep the strainer parts as much intact as possible any tips on how to replace those cracked plastic pieces on the arms ?

I have no idea how they built those, but I would suspect they just pressed them on. You may try contact Ludwig to see if they still stock those and can give you any info on how to repair/replace them.

they fit over the end of the shaft and are peened over. Not an easy way to take them apart. Usually you have to grind material away to be able to separate them and then you won't have enough to re-peen them. One way to deal with that is to drill and tap a hole in the end where it was peened. This will allow you to reassemble it using a machine screw. If you use the red loctite it will never come loose. It won't look original but short of replacing the parts it's about the only way to do it.

Hey thanks for the responses. I think I am making this seem more difficult than it should be. I have 2 donor end pieces with good plastic on them. I would just be taking the rivet out at the top that holds that whole plastic tension rod attachment to the top of the arm . With the metal piece in tact. Couldn't I just (somehow) pop or cut the rivet off the existing bad piece and do the same to the donor. Then re-rivet it on with a new rivet ? I would not be trying to pop out the backside of the teardrop shaped part that holds the plastic and replacing it with another plastic piece.Just taking out the rivet in the attached picture that holds that whole metal piece at the top of the arm? I know this is confusing but ....I guess I am looking for the best way to remove that rivet in a nutshell. I have never done anything like that before. Thanks again.

The best way to remove a rivit is to drill it out. The first drill is much smaller than the rivit,..the second time you drill it the bit is a little larger but will go straight through the smaller hole. Then use an awl or pin guague to hammer out the remains of the rivit the opposite way it was installed. The smaller end is the one you push through !! Without the drill hole the rivit wont crush small enough to go back out when you hammer it out. The rivit is always softer steel than the two parts !!

Use a drill bit made for steel. (blue package)

Use slow speed to start drilling.

A drop of oil on the drill bit helps.

Place the part over a hole in a piece of scrap wood when hammering it out.

If you don`t feel up to it,..take it to a good auto machanic !!

The problem is what you are wanting to remove is not a rivet. It is the end of the shaft you are trying to remove that has been peened over to hold the two pieces together. You can drill it out or grind it off but you end up with no material to re-peen to put it back together again. The method I described of drilling and tapping for a screw to replace the head you have to remove is really the only way to put them back together.

Thanks for the rivet advice oddball. I think that is what I am looking for.

Thin Shell.... thanks for your input as well but I am not trying to remove the end of the shaft that the plastic is actually physically attached to. I have a donor arm that has good plastic on the metal. Maybe a better way to describe it is a rivet holding the two arms together ? The rivet right below the area I think you are talking about. Sorry if my description of what I am trying to do is a bit off.This is un-chartered restoration territory for me.

Ah, now I understand what you are trying to do.