The trick with stain is getting an even coat to avoid unevenness and dark spots. I brush the stain on carefully and make sure that I'm being as consistent as possible with regards to the coat I'm applying. I've never tried a sponge but I wouldn't think you'd get the same consistent coat as with a brush.

An airgun is certainly a decent idea. That might render the best stain job but I've no experience with that either so couldn't be 100% sure on that.

Cuttle

I've used Minwax's new water based stains recently with good results on one kit and marginal on another. It works best if you prep the shells correctly first. Make sure any residual glue is gone and if it was a natural finish shell, that the finish coat of laquer or shellac is gone. I tried it on a new shell with fantastic results, older shells needed a lot of prepwork for the stain to finally take, but I still think it was worth it in the end due to the easy cleanup. I also used Minwax's water based acrylic poly for final finish with very good results. I just used a foam brush to apply both the stain and the poly.

I have said this before on another thread, wipe the shell with mineral spirits to make sure all the old glue is off. The mineral spirits will show if there is any glue left. Also before you stain you can wipe the shell with a damp rag to raise the grain, the stain will go on more evenly. Xylol (spelling?) and a sharp paint scraper has been my most succsessful method for removing glue.

Has anyone had luck in applying wood-dye as opposed to stain. My reason for asking is that I am looking to finish my project using blue and black dye; applying the black close to the bearing edges and then feathering it in on both sides - A blue/black sunburst finish. I know that with dyes (aniline) you have 2 options. One is applying the alcohol or water based dye (you mix it) directly to the wood. The other option is mixing the aniline dye powder as a tint with lacquer or clear coat and then applying that over your bare wood.

Any thoughts on that?

Wood dye is a great way to go! You can get water-based dyes at Woodcraft or other shop and they apply really easily. I intentionally do multiple passes getting progressively darker to the shade I want. It really pops the figuring of the wood and you can choose a clear top-coat to finish and protect. I can't say enough good things about dye.

Actually, the tobacco brown "stain" I was talking about, is actually a dye. I wasnt sure if there was a difference or not. I saw it on drummaker.com. And they have a water based, and an alcohol based. Are either one of these better to use?

[COLOR="DarkRed"]Does drummaker have a tutorial ? they usually do...you should call & ask...[/COLOR]