The pull rod will unscrew from the U-shaped holder for the pedal link, you will need a pair of vise-grips to get it apart though, as well as something to protect the face of the rod when using said vise-grips. We don't want to marr up the surface now do we? :)

Once the rod is unscrewed from the pedal link, pull it up and out from the stand from above. The spring will come out with it. The spring may not necessarily be weak, it may be all gummed up with hardened grease. Try cleaning out all the old dried up grease first, the relube the spring with a multipurpose grease from the local auto parts store. Then try out the hi-hat. If its still "droopy", then just take it apart again, clean out the new grease and take the spring out and down to the local building supply/hardware store to try and match it up with something similar. NOS Ludwig ones do turn up from time to time, but are rather hard to find. BTW, Ludwig no longer sells replacement springs like these, but yo may find something close from another of the major drum hardware manufacturers if you can't source something locally.

I agree with Ludwig-dude. I have re-furbished many of these in my day, and I own 10 of them.

Sometimes the brass coupling nut at the top of the lower pull rod will come loose, in which case you can't unscrew the bottom of the lower pull rod from the U shaped bracket that is connected to the pedal linkage (because they only thing that moves is the coupling nut). If that's the case, follow step 1 below. If the coupling nut is locked on, go to step 2.

Step 1: Take off the coupling nut and clean it up (using some lighter fluid or Goof-off and some q-tips or (even better) a thin bottle brush for the inside threads. Do the same to the threads on the top of the lower pull rod (using a small wire brush-like a toothbrush size/shape) to clean the threads. After this is done, grab some Permatex Thread Locker (Red-High Strength kind). Lay the stand on it's side and coat the threads on the pull rod with thread locker, than screw the coupling nut back on tight. Be careful not to get any threadlocker down the tube and clean up any excess with paper towels. Take a few q-tips and clean out the top half of the coupling nut, just to make sure there is no extra threadlocker in there, although there shouldn't be if you are careful. Let it sit for 24-48 hours.

Step 2: Using a socket wrench, take the coupling nut and loosen it, while holding on to the U shaped bracket at the bottom of the lower pull rod with pliers. As Ludwig-dude said, use something to not mar the finish of the U shaped bracket (an old sock works for me). The lower pull rod will unscrew, and the U shaped bracket will fall. The pedal then can come off seperately (for easy cleaning!) Turn the stand upside down and the lower pull rod and spring will fall out (it will be dirty/greasy, so be careful!). Soak the spring in a Snapple type glass bottle filled about 90% of the way with paint thinner (shaking it occasionally with the lid on TIGHT). Clean the rest of the lower pull rod with your lighter fluid/Goof Off from before, using your wire toothbrush (don't forget the threads on the bottom). Let the spring soak overnight.

Step 3 (Optional): You don't have to do this, but I usually clean out the inside of the tube of the tripod base, and you get much better results if you do. Put some duct tape (a few layers) over the small hole where the bottom of the lower pull rod screws into the U shaped bracket. Go OUTDOORS (nasty fumes) and choose a place over dirt or weeds (not pavement). Paint thinner will stain pavement and will kill grass, weeds; ANYTHING it touches (so of course your neighbor's yard is perfect!). Once your tape is in place, fill the tube with paint thinner (using a funnel) and scrub the inside with a long, skinny bottle brush. Give it a good scrub, and then dump it out (you'll be amazed how black and nasty the first dump out is!). Repeat several times, until it comes out completely clear. Then, take off the duct tape and go in from the bottom with your bottle brush (just to be thorough). Dry off the stand with paper towels (throwing them away outside) and let the stand "air out" for a while. It's also a good idea to clean off the top of the U shaped bracket where the threads are too.

Step 4: Dump out the Snapple bottle (outdoors, over weeds/dirt of course!) and wash the bottle/spring thoroughly with soap and warm water. If you have any stubborn spots of caked on gunk, use your trusty wire brush again. I also recommend replacing the washer that goes on the lower pull rod (where the small "wings" stick out) with a more solid one from the hardware store. Take the lower pull rod with you and just find a washer that fits onto the pull rod, but won't go past the "wings". This gives the spring a little firmer action (IMHO). Then, assemble your lower pull rod (washer, then spring with the larger end facing away from the washer and coupling nut) and spray the entire spring with a good quality lubricant. I prefer Tri-Flow. It has teflon which protects and cleans at the same time. WD-40 will work, but can get "gunked up" over time. Finally, insert the lower pull rod into the tripod base, re-attach the pedal (using the socket wrench and pliers so it's good and tight) , replace the upper tube (to keep the lower pull rod straight so the bottom of the coupling nut won't end up hitting the top of the tripod section as you work the pedal) and work that spring! You'll occasionally have to wipe off the U shaped bracket, as the excess lubricant will drain out the bottom of the tube. You should notice a HUGE improvement in the action. If you do need a new spring, take the old one with you; most well-stocked hardware stores have springs that are similar. Also, if you ever need to re-lube the spring, just take it apart, re-spray, and put it back together! No clean up necessary (especially if you use the Tri-Flow).

Good luck and more importantly, have fun!

V

WOW!!!! Thanks for the hints!!!!!I will get on them thar Spur-Loks post haste...V

Great step-by-step advice above.

In lieu of replacing the OEM spring, I've also had success with stretching the

old spring (after disassembling/cleaning everything). I carefully -a little at a

time - stretch it to increase the length about 3/4". This takes out the slack

and supports the weight of the top cymbal. Also restores the action to like-new.

Hope this helps.

MW

I will give that a try ..Good idea Thanks V

I had tried to repair mine once because the spring was sprung. It was too worn and weak. I had brought it with me to a well stocked hardware store and couldn't find a spring similar because one end was flared out. I had purchased two springs that were the same dia. as the flared out end and equaled the same length with a washer (that just fits over the rod) placed between them and at the top, greased them up, which worked out great. Pics how the spring looked when I removed it...maybe I could have stretched it out?