Greetings,
I have refurbished and overhauled Speed Kings in the past, but that was just cleaning and lubricating them. This one also involved doing some repair and replacing some parts. I thought I would share my experience:
First off, this was the worst Speed King I have run across. All of my usual tricks and "go to's" wouldn't work. I had to spray the end caps with lubricant multiple times and pound them with a rubber mallet to get them off. I had to repeatedly spray the tension screws with lubricant and let them soak, and then use a TON of effort to get them all the way out. It took me about 30 minutes each to get the piston/spring out of the chassis. The worst gunk I have ever seen!
The connection on the foot board/heel plate and frame was loose and sloppy and the holes around the two heads of the hinge pin were elongated and chewed. I was able to get the hinge pin out by grinding off the head on one side. As discussed in another thread not long ago, I grinded off the right side head of the hinge pin (on the "Spring" and "King" side of the foot board). After it came out, It looks like I could've done either side; the pin was the same diameter the whole way through; it was not tapered. I replaced the hinge pin with a 1/4" screw and stop nut. I used nylon washers in between the frame and the heads of the screws/nuts so there would no metal to metal contact, with metal washers on the outside, contacting the head of the screw and stop nut. My plan was to put thin nylon washers on either side of the heel plate, but I could only fit one. I tightened the stop nut just enough to give some resistance. The action is great and the whole connection nice and tight now. Curiously, a 5/16" screw fit into the actual foot board, but would not fit into the frame or the heel plate, so I had to go with a 1/4". I had to use a 3.5" long screw. A 3" was a little too short, and the next longer size was 3.5". I could cut the excess off with a Dremel, but it doesn't bother me, so I'll probably just leave it.
The thin piece of sheet metal at the top of the foot board where the chassis hooks on (and keeps the hook tightly in place) had broken off. I drilled out the rivet, and found a screw and locking nut that fit. To replace the sheet metal piece, I knew I needed something thin, yet rigid and flexible. I used a piece from a plastic paint edger. It works perfectly! Initially I tried a piece from the blade of a plastic putty knife, but at .080" thick, it was actually too thick! The hook wouldn't hook. The paint edger piece was about half as thick (.045") and works perfect. It's white in color, but that doesn't bother me.
Finally, the tension pin that was holding the hook onto the chassis was almost pulled through, and the hook itself was bent in a couple different places and was overall hanging crooked. I just ordered a whole new hook and pin assembly for about $ 8. In lieu of the pin, I used a small screw and nut, again with nylon washers so there was no metal to metal contact. The new replacement hook (and the original as well) has a small nylon sleeve that is hidden inside the hook (that the pin/screw) goes through. I didn't know that before!
I had fun doing this one, even though it was a pain. It plays great now.
Thanks,
V
