Well, if tuned correctly, the heads will keep it in round. It probably will not be a big problem.

Are there reinforcement rings?

If so, are they properly glued?

Jon

No rings inside.

Obviously...I keep the heads on. I was more worried about it becoming a much larger problem as time goes on.

If it is fine for now I am more than happy to leave it alone!

Needs Viagra...........:o

You may want to give the interior a few coats of polyurethane or other similar lacquer. This will give the shell more strength and rigidity. I use Satin Finish Minwax Polyurethane with great results. I apply a few thin coats, and then use 000 Steel Wool to take off the sheen. I have a 3-ply with re-rings, and this really helps them a lot. They feel "stiffer" and more stable now (without hardware), but the sound is pretty much unchanged.

Also, I would make certain that the leg mounts (and even the lugs) have very large washers as "backing plates" to take more of the stress off the shell.

Finally, I would consider adding re-rings. Don't know if that would be too costly or not, but would certainly help the problem.

Good luck!

or this:

http://www.pcepoxy.com/our-products/wood-repair/pc-petrifier.php

used this for the one on the left:

its a watery substance that might be thinned wood glue with additives that will soak into the interior ply of your shell; it might give it a little extra support, whereas finishes are really a shield that mostly lay on the surface

if you have a set of old heads laying around, put them on and cut a hole in one side so you can apply the PCP with the shell in a supported, round, shape

PCP?!!!?! :eek:

I was hired to repair one once that was on a Gym stage. It took a basketball in the midsection and all but swallowed it. Any other drum would have just been knocked out of the way.-------- Fixed it with lots of glue and clamps.

The plies on those things are incredibly thin and the glue is very poor, so the plies can separate and you end up with a shell made out of sheets of veneer. Luckily, the porous wood absorbs glue like a sponge. In such circumstances, the glue is stronger than the wood.

I have done everything including injecting glue into the separated sections with a hypodermic needle. Hardwood slats, old hockey stick sections, halved old bicycle rims can all be put to use to reglue these things and reconform them. I use good white or carpenter's glue. Weldbond is the one for me.

I finally contacted Bernie at Stone Custom Drum in Ft. Wayne. Talk about a class act! He met my wife and I away from his shop due to my running late and having to keep all my appointments. I gave him both the floor tom and the rack tom to see what he could do. The rack tom needed bearing edges cut, the floor tom does too but I asked him to see if he could work some magic on it because of how soft it is. Not that I am against learning (and seriously thanks for the information all that posted), but in instances like these I am ok with calling on a pro...and Bernie is! The main thing I learned is getting into this would be way beyond my comfort zone on a kit that I need to have working. If it was sitting and collecting dust...maybe.

I will post back up on here once I get my toms back with the results. I will tell ya though...if he can bring the edges back to life in any way, shape, or form he will get a HUGE thumbs up from me! They were pretty beaten and abused. He is also going to look and see if he has a MIJ tone control setup for the rack tom. Right now I am using a Ludwig piece that just does not fit very well.