Deeper snare beds would work...

Well you got me curious.. and I just happen to have a solid shell RK torn apart so I grabbed a 3 ply student model I had on the shelf and opened it to compare the edges.

I tried to get a few shots comparing depth of the beds and width of the beds.. now I need to figure out how to shoot a profile. I guess profile is really what we need.

It looks like the RK beds that use the Clamshell are deeper than the 6 lug student model which uses the Rapid strainer.

Also the RK used a wider set of snare wires than the Student model.

Maybe on your drum the combination of wider snares pulled more deeply into the snare bed than it was designed for is choking the drum.

The RK with Clamshell do have spacer between the bar and wires to keep them a little more shallow in the bed... there was a thread out here than even talked about just that spacer missing choking an RK.. so it would follow that Rapid Strainer pulling the snares with strings would not sound so great on that drum.

Summation: I would put the correct strainer on the drum before I would modify the edges on a drum that was "fairly" successful in it's original design.

Of course as I am always quick to point out I don't know SQUAT but I do find the science of drums really interesting and I like to learn from questions like yours.

And WOW that is a beautiful job on the drum... man I love sparkling red!

[COLOR="DarkRed"]Wow, Jim...great assessment there. I just learned something new....[/COLOR]

Thanks so much Jim, for taking the time out to take pics and answer my post. People like you make the web worth the traffic!

I can see from your pics that the drum on the left (RK) that the over sized wires and deeper bed are the key. Problem is, I am in Sydney Australia and I've never seen a decent combo of the hardware I could afford. It's a great set of clues you've given me though; so I'll take that information and try to do the best I can.

Thanks for the comment on the restoration. This drum was severely abused in it's previous life. It has been a great pleasure to see it looking half decent again.

Many thanks,

pk

http://www.music123.com/Rhythm-Tech-RT7000-Active-Snare-System-442986-i1137077.Music123

You know maybe an "Active Snare System" would be the ticket... just an idea.

It would take some dialing in but it would mean you could keep the wire tension component of the tuning seperate from the height side of the tuning. That just might be the ticket in this situation.

Best of luck on it, its certainly a drum that can sound great.

Keep us posted! :)

Thanks for the idea Jim. I ordered one. It took a while, because I'm downunder. Just a note of caution to those who do buy this snare - the first one I got had very bad moulding on the plastic ends of the snare wires. It would have shredded the bottom head. Anyway, since it cost me $50 in pacific pesos, I asked for replacement snares. They arrived with only slight rough patches - I sanded them down ok. They also gave me the original faulty set and last night I pretty much got them into shape on the bench grinder, so I have spares now too.

Anyway - they work! Really snappy. Like a Dyna King! Very happy. Thanks again. Jump For Joy

Have you thought about replacing the strainer system with a TDR system from the 70's? You can then extend the snares and get that sound you are looking for. I did this on my 8 X 14 Radio King, without drilling new holes - I made a plate system (like the Presto Plates) and mounted the TDR. I love the drum.

I can probably help you

BUT

I need to see the stariner handle...

Also take the snare head off and shoot the profile because you can see the bed..

In 72 we begane to put a tri plane snare bed on the drums...The bed is not scooped but flat...If your sting is too thick you raise the snares....

Try think guage blind cord for 50 cents....and see if that helps...

Cutting a snare bed is dangerous if its not done right it dead