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Slingerland Black Diamond Pearl

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Good morning! I've been playing drums for almost 40 years, new to this forum, and about to start my first drum set restoration project.

I bought a 1970s Slingerland black diamond pearl set though Guitar Center,'s vintage department, and it should arrive in the next few days. Once it arrives, I have three days to examine it and return it if it is too far gone for me. I have no history on the set at all, so it might have been stored in attic/garage for decades.

It's not a complete set, no snare. It has a 22" bass, 12", 13", 14" inch toms, 16" floor tom. When I spoke to the store local guy, he said the mounts, lugs, etc., all appear to be original.

I've been reading through the forum here and I'm flooded by the fantastic amount of information! Thank you all very much for the time you've put in here! I'm trying to figure out my plan of attack for the short period of time I have. So far I've come up with this:

[LIST=1]

[*]Inspect the exteriors for obvious damage.

[*]Remove the rims and heads, inspect the edges/interior of the shells for damage. Make sure they don't stink!

[*]Test the shells for roundness. My best idea is to try and put new heads on and make sure they go on easily and can turn side to side. If the heads go on well, then tune them up and see how they sound. I'm planning on using Evans G1 coated heads.

[/LIST]

Can anybody think of anything else that would help me with a go-nogo decision in the three days I will have? Thanks!!!!!

Current sets
2018 Precision Drum (natural maple, 10/12/13/16/20)
Gretsch USA: 1958 3-ply (white pearl, 12/16/20), 1976 6-ply (12/13/16/22), 1998 6-ply (walnut, 8/10/12/14/16/20)
Slingerland: 1963 (BDP, 13/16/22), 1966 (Sparkle red, 13/16/20)
Posted on 6 years ago
#1
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Welcome to the forum Warrenwood. You're plan is good. Post some pictures and the knowledgeable people here could help you with details large and small.

Posted on 6 years ago
#2
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I agree, your plan sounds good.

I would recommend you measure the shells for roundness with a tape measure also. Measure across the shell on both sides. Go from one lug to the other lug that is 180 degrees from it and record the measurement (go from 12 o' clock to 6 o' clock). Then do the same thing from 9 o' clock to 3 o' clock. That way you're checking all four "corners" of the shell. When comparing the two measurements, any difference 1/8" or less should be ok. Any difference greater than that is going to be trouble for tuning, resonance and head fitting.

Also, check for any loose or damaged reinforcement rings, or any "Macgyver-ed" parts, like larger screws on one lug from another etc.

Finally, I'm not sure if you've tried the Evans UV1 heads or not. They are coated single ply, just like the G1. I was a Remo guy for years and years, and I tried the UV1 heads on a whim. They are absolutely fantastic. Most durable coating ever invented. The heads stay clean and the coating doesn't wear away. I highly recommend them.

Good luck with your project. Be sure to post pictures so we can give more detailed suggestions etc. Plus we love pictures!

Posted on 6 years ago
#3
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As vyacheslav suggested, check for roundness with a tape measure. Don't just use a your drum head, especially if you plan on using a REMO offering. I have several vintage Slingy kits with re-cut bearing edges. I prefer coated single ply heads on my vintage kits. Every REMO coated ambassador head I've tried rocks on the edge. That's why I've been using Evans 360's. Perfect fit every time. They lay flat all the way around. I think all of the EVANS heads by now are using the 360 technology. You might want to experiment with REMO vs. Evans. If your kit is 3 ply with re-rings, check all edges for separations. Most of them do. If you keep the kit, just get a small syringe and inject wood glue and then clamp it. Once it's dry, lightly sand with 220 grit.

Posted on 6 years ago
#4
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From vyacheslav

Finally, I'm not sure if you've tried the Evans UV1 heads or not. They are coated single ply, just like the G1. I was a Remo guy for years and years, and I tried the UV1 heads on a whim. They are absolutely fantastic. Most durable coating ever invented. The heads stay clean and the coating doesn't wear away. I highly recommend them.

If I were to use the G1 or UV1 heads, what reso would you recommend? I'm thinking about the Evans Resonant Black for both tone and appearance.

Current sets
2018 Precision Drum (natural maple, 10/12/13/16/20)
Gretsch USA: 1958 3-ply (white pearl, 12/16/20), 1976 6-ply (12/13/16/22), 1998 6-ply (walnut, 8/10/12/14/16/20)
Slingerland: 1963 (BDP, 13/16/22), 1966 (Sparkle red, 13/16/20)
Posted on 6 years ago
#5
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Hello Warrenwood...and Welcome to the forum!

All the above posts are spot-on with recommendations. For heads, your best bet will be the Evans single ply 360 heads. Not saying that Remo heads won't work, but my experience with many late 60's and 70's Slinglerland kits prove this. Another excellent option, which I've not had the pleasure of trying yet, are the Remo Classic Fit heads. However, they are not yet offered in bass drum sizes.

Hope you can post some pictures of the kit. Also, the included rack toms, and sizes, suggest that this is an Avante kit. Is this what you are receiving?

-Mark

1 attachments
Posted on 6 years ago
#6
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Thank you everybody!

I decided to get the Evans G1 heads for the toms, and EMAD for the bass batter heads, since the local GC had them in stock. I haven't decided on reso heads. I haven't seen the tom attachment hardware yet, so I'm not sure it's the Avante. If so, I may have to make a decision between "restore to resell" and "restore to make it playable by me". I'm not sure I can adapt to the triangle! :)

Edit: when I say "make it playable by me" I will not be drilling, sawing, etc. I mean things like RIMS mounts and contemporary hardware/stands. I'll keep all the existing hardware for future needs.

Current sets
2018 Precision Drum (natural maple, 10/12/13/16/20)
Gretsch USA: 1958 3-ply (white pearl, 12/16/20), 1976 6-ply (12/13/16/22), 1998 6-ply (walnut, 8/10/12/14/16/20)
Slingerland: 1963 (BDP, 13/16/22), 1966 (Sparkle red, 13/16/20)
Posted on 6 years ago
#7
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From Warrenwood

Thank you everybody!I decided to get the Evans G1 heads for the toms, and EMAD for the bass batter heads, since the local GC had them in stock. I haven't decided on reso heads. I haven't seen the tom attachment hardware yet, so I'm not sure it's the Avante. If so, I may have to make a decision between "restore to resell" and "restore to make it playable by me". I'm not sure I can adapt to the triangle! :)Edit: when I say "make it playable by me" I will not be drilling, sawing, etc. I mean things like RIMS mounts and contemporary hardware/stands. I'll keep all the existing hardware for future needs.

I think you're good with your choice of heads. As for reso's, either clear or coated will work great, also in the G1.

Yeah, that "triangle tom setup" can be awkward. I'd play it as a 12/13. I know we're all looking forward to pictures.

-Mark

Posted on 6 years ago
#8
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From idrum4fun

Yeah, that "triangle tom setup" can be awkward. I'd play it as a 12/13. I know we're all looking forward to pictures. -Mark

I should have the set in hand Sunday sometime, pics will be up shortly after. I can barely wait!

Agreed on playing 12/13, but I was thinking about using a RIMS or something like a Dynamount floor tom basket and using the 14" as a floor tom.

Current sets
2018 Precision Drum (natural maple, 10/12/13/16/20)
Gretsch USA: 1958 3-ply (white pearl, 12/16/20), 1976 6-ply (12/13/16/22), 1998 6-ply (walnut, 8/10/12/14/16/20)
Slingerland: 1963 (BDP, 13/16/22), 1966 (Sparkle red, 13/16/20)
Posted on 6 years ago
#9
Posts: 1525 Threads: 127
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That is how I set up my Avante set. Use the largest tom as a floor next to the designated floor tom. Looks and sounds great. Wish mine had of been BDP in the same shape as my red wrap.

Posted on 6 years ago
#10
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