I've used several different products over the years but have cut it back to a select few, depending on the wood condition. If the wood is very brittle, I use a couple applications of Lemon Oil & then let the shell sit for a couple months to dry back out a little. If a shell just has some "lacquer crack" going on, I'll remove the old lacquer/shellac/varnish with denatured alcohol (this can take a while) & then use a Feed & Wax, Butcher Block Conditioner, Tung Oil, Linseed Oil or Walnut Oil to re-apply the interior finish. The one thing I try to also do is use the purest product available. I order all my Oils online from TreeHouse Labs in Washington State. Most of the Oil finishing products you find a Home Depot & Lowe's are chemical nightmares, containing all kinds of crap you don't need. The folks at TreeHouse use only Pure Oils & a simple Solvent...good stuff & great prices...and no, I have no affiliation with the company! LOL!

Hope this helps!

Dan

On old MIJ stuff, about anything you want will work.I use nothing but a clear brushing lacquer, never using poly, as it is basically liquid plastic and lends a closed, plastic sound to the drum(s) and the wood will never again be able to breathe. As my friend fungus suggests,you could use the other alts, but they are time consuming,and MIJ don't warrant that investment, IMO. I am an MIJ enthusiast to the max, so my opinion is one from reality and experience with MANY kits over the last few years.

thats the best the lemon oil keeps the wood from clogging it allows it to breath, i also like butcher block as it also protects and rejuvenate