As far as edges go, Precision drum will re-cut edges on 12", 13" toms for $16.75 per edge. The bigger the diameter of the drum, the cost goes up. Google Precision drum, give them a call for a quote. Nice people there. From what I can see the wrap will be a minor fix. Now the ring coming loose! Don`t know about that one? Does it look like water damage? Are the drums still round? You can check that easy enough with a drum head. Does the head fit on the drum OK? Put the head on and look and see if the metal ring on the head has the same clearance to the wrap all the way around. If they are "egg shaped" the heads will be tight and can be really hard to tune. (Bad thing) As far as parts go, look on e-bay that will give you a good idea what the parts will cost you. Or you could just ship them to me! LoLoLoLo

Thanks for the reply! I just checked a few of the toms, and they aren't perfectly round! The heads have to be forced on. Is this fixable, and if so how is it done?

Namu,

First if all, that is a really cool set and certainly worth fixing. Another option would be to sell it to someone who wants to work on it. Often times it is difficult ti sell school assets however.

You can bring drums back into round. There are a few threads on the forum about that. Most guys resort to removing some lugs near the wides dimension, inserting a threaded rod through the lug mounting holes across to the other side and then gently "squeezing" the shell to bring it back into round. From what I understand, this can take a few weeks of compressing and monitoring but apparently not too hard nor costly.

There are also plenty of threads on here about repairing separating plies and reinforcement hoops. Lots of talks about watered down glue, syringes and clamps, but again it's not high level carpentry.

As to edges, where are you located? There might be somone close by that does that sort of thing so you can avoid the shipping costs. My guess is the bottom edges are in rough shape. If they are dinged an gouged then they probably need to be re-cut. If they are just a little rough you might be able to simply clean them up with some light sanding.

A lot of the guys here are die-hard and would expect to replace any parts with period correct parts. That is fine for them, but for you I would just go and get whatever you needed to make the whole again whether new, used and whomever manufactured it. Keep costs down. So long as you are not drilling holes in the drums to add a part then you are in great shape.

When you clean these up and get those minor repairs done, they will be sweet indeed!!!! There is plenty of help to be had here from guys that seriously know what they are doing! Enjoy, ask questions and keep posting. Best of luck to you.

Namu - Welcome to VDF!

This is -all- minor repairs that you can do at home. You'll need to pay a visit to Home Depot or Lowes etc depending on how well-stocked your basic tool kit is.

1. The wrap lift:

A. Use blue (paper) painters tape to mask off the wrap opposite the seam. Butt the tape right up to the seam. This will prevent any squeeze out from the adhesive from oozing onto the wrap/finish.

B. Any cyano-acrylic gel-type glue will do, but you can also use contact cement. For Crazy Glue (Gel-type), use a Q-tip to coat the underside of the seam with adhesive. Don't over-do it. You don't want any squeeze out when you apply pressure.

C. Press down and place a long strip of wood over the seam and clamp it down. (see photo) Leave the clamps in place for a full 24 hours. The seam won't come up again for another 25 years.

[IMG]http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n632/PurdieShuffle/bw1.jpg[/IMG]

2. Ply separation:

Simple... use a toothpick or small artist brush to fill the gap with yellow carpenters glue. Use several clamps and immediately wipe away any excess glue squeeze out. (see photo of spring clamps. You'll need a bunch of them. They're cheap, no worries.) Leave the clamps in place for a full 24 hours.

[IMG]http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n632/PurdieShuffle/sc.jpg[/IMG]

3. Bearing edges.

A. Use wood filler to fill in any chips or dings along the edges. Use your finger to rub it in and try to follow the existing profile of the edge. You want the filler as level with the existing surface as possible.

B. Get 4 - 120 grit (self-stick - it has a sticky back,) sand paper sheets. Find the flattest surface in the house, usually a formica counter-top. Stick the four sheets of sand paper to the (flat) surface in a large square, butting the ends of the paper.

C. After the filler is good and dry, place the edge down on the sand paper and -gently- twirl the shell from side to side a few times to level off the bearing edge - without removing too much material. You just want to level the bearing edge, not lower it by removing too much wood.

D. The top of the edge will be slightly flat on top after this operation. Take some of the 120 grit paper and (holding it just like a shoe-shine boy, holding both ends and folded over the edge,) buff the sheet back and forth over the bearing edge until it regains its roundness. Go around the drum evenly.

E. Use some quality paste wax or butchers wax and seal the edges. Use 00-00 steel wool to rub on the wax. The bearing edges will be smooth as glass when you're all done.

Don't let it intimidate you, it's a job you can do. Does not require special skill, just attention to detail and calm care.

Back in-round -

It;s already been described for you above. Good method and it works. Leave the rod and clamps on for a couple of weeks minimum. The drum will hold its shape after that.

BTW, I have the dual-tom post you need for the kit. If you're interested, send me a pm (private message) through the forum. The other missing hoop and odds and ends can be had here, or at ebay.

If you run into any problems, ask here. One of the boys will see it and respond.

Best of luck, nice drums. Worthy of restoration.

John

A lot of great info there! Very well said (typed) John Bowing

Wow, thank you all for the replies! Tons of great info here.

I'll be looking these drums over more this weekend. But this is what it looks like so far:

- reinforcement ring separating from bearing edge a little on almost all drums except the 13" tom. A little on the bass drum as well.

- 16" floor tom is out of round for sure. I'll have to check on the rest.

- wrap is opening up on a few of the toms.

- bass drum needs new spurs (I already have the dual tom mount, but I doubt I'd use it...probably will just use a snare stand for the rack tom)

- wear and tear on bearing edges.

- I think a friend of mine has the matching snare in his garage, so I'll have to check with him on that.

After visiting this forum, I at least know one thing: I'll make sure these drums are restored, either by me or someone who loves to do this sort of thing. I won't let them go to waste.

Thanks again!