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Several restore projects

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Hey everyone. Help2 I have several projects I plan on finally getting around to this summer. I have some questions:

I have several drums to remove point from. How do I best remove paint from a wrap versus a stripped drum (stripped and painted) versus a painted drum (a duco that was painted over--is it possible to preserve the duco beneath?). What about hardware? So...when is a stripping compound preferred (and what brands), and when is stripping by mechanical means better (and what type? wet-sanding? steel wool?)

Also, when removing round badge tacks, are they prone to snapping off, or do they bend readily and easily, at least a few times? Also, does anybody know what size of grommet is needed for a round badge for a bass drum? Also, how do you best remove satin flame wrap? (I've heard it and/or the glue is highly flammable, so heat guns are out of the question...)

Sheesh! Lots of questions. Thanks for any and all knowledge from personal experience you're willing to impart. Oh, and of course I'll start some restoration threads as I get started. :)

1970 Ludwig Downbeat
1965 Ludwig Hollywood
1970 Ludwig Jazzette
Posted on 13 years ago
#1
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From caddywumpus

Also, how do you best remove satin flame wrap? (I've heard it and/or the glue is highly flammable, so heat guns are out of the question...)Sheesh! Lots of questions. Thanks for any and all knowledge from personal experience you're willing to impart. Oh, and of course I'll start some restoration threads as I get started. :)

The heat gun method works, but you just have to be careful. I have a 6 ply cortex wrapped Ludwig shell in the shop that I have been messing with for about a year, and I get frustrated with it, so rather than catching it on fire, I just turn off the heat and walk away....rather than just igniting it for the pure hell of it. Other than that, you can take a scraper and work it off w/out heat, but that will drive you mad enough to grab the heat gun and set it on fire....just for the pure hell of it.Laughing H

"Ignorance may be overcome through education. Stupidity, however, is a lifelong endeavor." So, educate me, I don't likes bein' ignant...
"I enjoy restoring 60s Japanese "stencil" drums...I can actually afford them..."I rescue the worst of the old valueless drums for disadvantaged Children and gladly accept donations of parts, pieces and orphans, No cockroaches, please...
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Posted on 13 years ago
#2
Posts: 2212 Threads: 95
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Saw a thread on dfo about catching the wrap on fire and basically it just melts off, takes the glue off with it.

Posted on 13 years ago
#3
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Okay. I got the first layer of the satin flame wrap off. That was the easy part. Now, I'm left with the bottom layer of the satin flame wrap and the glue underneath. This stuff will take a lifetime to get off the drum if I attempt to scrape it off. Are there any products that people use to specifically get this stuff off without damaging the shell?

1970 Ludwig Downbeat
1965 Ludwig Hollywood
1970 Ludwig Jazzette
Posted on 13 years ago
#4
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If the night temps by you are low enough... let the drum sit out overnight in cold temps. (Freezing temps better!) The wood will contract enough for the wrap to pop off by morning. It's the 'lazy-man' method. I had a buddy that used to either freeze shells to pop the wrap, or set them on fire. Either way, the wrap is off no muss, no fuss. Although I don't recommend the fire method.

John

Too many great drums to list here!

http://www.walbergandauge.com/VintageVenue.htm
Posted on 13 years ago
#5
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I've had reasonable success removing spray paint from a wrap using straight razor on a Ludwig Pioneer. It takes time and care to not scratch the wrap, but it works. You can also use a window sticker scraper tool to make it easier on your hands. I refinished the wrap with a spray-on acrylic coat, which made the scratches imperceptible.

I've heard from a guitar restorer that the 3M Safest Stripper is the best product to use for paint removal -- you can remove a single layer of paint if applied right.

Posted on 13 years ago
#6
Posts: 2753 Threads: 132
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It is my understanding that round badge tacks are nothing more than standard upholstery tacks that are still manufactured. There have recently been scammers on eBay selling new upholstery tacks as vintage NOS Gretsch round badge tacks. They have taken some fools for big bucks when an upholstery shop would sell them to you for under a buck each. So, if a tack gets broken, no biggie. take it to s local upholsterer to match up to a new one.

No matter how far you push the envelope, it is still stationery.
Posted on 13 years ago
#7
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Thank you SO much for the input, everyone! Keep it coming! Don't be shy! :D

Still looking for some advice about removing that silvery/shiny gunk leftover from the satin flame wrap. Heck, it would make a great wrap by itself if it were all there and protected somehow, but it's got to go. I *want* to do a natural maple finish on these drums, if possible, and a satin flame wrap is a backup plan if something goes wrong. What do you guys use to finish wood? I've heard glowing reviews about "Howard's" products today...

1970 Ludwig Downbeat
1965 Ludwig Hollywood
1970 Ludwig Jazzette
Posted on 13 years ago
#8
Posts: 6287 Threads: 375
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From caddywumpus

Thank you SO much for the input, everyone! Keep it coming! Don't be shy! :DStill looking for some advice about removing that silvery/shiny gunk leftover from the satin flame wrap. Heck, it would make a great wrap by itself if it were all there and protected somehow, but it's got to go. I *want* to do a natural maple finish on these drums, if possible, and a satin flame wrap is a backup plan if something goes wrong. What do you guys use to finish wood? I've heard glowing reviews about "Howard's" products today...

Can you post a pic, but I think you are at the "chemically assisted" portion of your show. Xylene is what has worked for me.

Kevin
Posted on 13 years ago
#9
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From kevins

Can you post a pic, but I think you are at the "chemically assisted" portion of your show. Xylene is what has worked for me.

Alright. After trying out the recommendation of Xylene on the satin flame bottom layer, and recommendation of Acetone for removing the rest of the paint from another drum, I'm out of ideas.

The Xylene DIDN'T work. AT ALL. Didn't remove the leftover satin flame gunk, and didn't even budge the glue. I did everything from paper towel-dabbing and brushing it on to even pouring it over the drum (in frustration and a desperate attempt to see if it actually works). Nothing. Nada. Doesn't work.

It was suggested that I use Acetone to thin out the leftover paint on the 12" tom, and that I could just simply and lightly sand the rest of the paint off with a sanding sponge, as the acetone would magically "lift" the paint from within the grain. Nope. Didn't work that way, either. Once again, I tried applying the acetone with a paper towel, then generously with a brush, and once more with a *soaked* rag that I let sit on the drum (to prevent it all from evaporating immediately). Nope. The paint is still as stubborn as ever.

I'm at the point where I'm ready to just @#$%^&^%$#@!!!!! sand everything off and turn these 6-ply Gretsch shells into 5-ply shells. I'm going to give it another day, though, as I'm feeling a bit frustrated and aggressive at the moment. Any last-minute suggestions before I completely obliterate the shells by sanding?

1970 Ludwig Downbeat
1965 Ludwig Hollywood
1970 Ludwig Jazzette
Posted on 13 years ago
#10
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