Well I actually found a note on the Precision Drum site that mahogany shells should be sealed anyway to prevent dyes and stains from bleeding through light colored pearls so I guess I got my answer.

snip------

When recovering Mahogany, previously painted, stained or dyed shells in Antique White, White Pearl, Blue White Pearl, Continental, or Sky Blue Pearl, first apply one coat of sealer/primer to the shells and allow to dry thoroughly. This will prevent dyes and stains from coming through the wrap material. Once the sealer/primer is dry according to manufacturers specifications, proceed with the recovering project as normal.

snip------

Mark

I think I know exactly what your talking about. When I removed the old wrap on my vintage Slingerland bass drum, it seemed some large splinters of the mahogany may have come up with the wrap leaving the wood a little grainy or not smooth in some places. I also had to repair a quarter size hole.

I got some Elmers Carpenters Wood Filler. It says below that,"Repairs Holes & Gouges" It comes in different colors in a 3.25oz squeeze tube. It also comes in different wood colors. I squezed some out on those areas and smoothed it out with a plastic spatula and after it dried, which doesn't take long, lightly sanded it smooth. I had to do this in several areas. Here is a pic of mine before the wrap. It's not pretty but it is smooth, even though you can't tell from the pic. The shell's integrity was fine and the wrap went on beautifully. Then you could use sealer, tung oil, whatever after you get the wood smooth.

.

That's the exact color wrap I'm going to use on my set.

Yours looks like the set on Jammin Sam's site. Really beautiful.

I hope mine look this nice when I'm finished.

I think I'm going to try a couple coats of thinned water based poly followed by

light sanding.

My next decision is if I should re-wrap my black Radio King to match.

It's got 2 extra tiny holes from a previous owner installing Ludwig

throw-off so it's probably already not "collector grade"

http://s646.beta.photobucket.com/user/mschmitz57/library/Slingerland%20Restoration

http://s646.beta.photobucket.com/user/mschmitz57/media/Drums/IMG_0421-2.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1

Mark

Yes, it's the same set. I sent Sam some pics of the set and he is useing them on his site to show the Vintage Sky Blue Pearl Wrap. This wrap is plenty thick with a black backing, and you can cover that snare and not even worry about those extra holes. I did not fill the holes for the diamond tom mount on my tom in case I ever wanted to add one or if I ever sold the set and someone else wanted to. Also the same for the bass if I or someone wants to add the cymbal holder mount. Does not affect it one bit. I like the virgin look of the drums. Those toms did not have badges or vent holes. You could use that Elmers wood filler to fill those holes in your snare if you really want to. I wish I could find a old wood Slingerland snare to restore and wrap to match my set.

Sanding sealer will be fine. Don't over-sand the surface too smooth. Use a 100 or 120 grit paper, not finishing grades like 220. You want the contact cement to have something to grab onto. A 'little rough' is even desirable when using any adhesive. Scuff the back of the wrap too! I use a Scotchbrite to go over it and rough it up a little bit. Better adhesion.

John

Just my :2Cents: :

Yes, it's a good idea to seal the outside of the shells, whether it's mahagony or not. Even if you're using Sam's tape method.

I got a really good deal on a set of silver sparkle Ludwigs (24/16/13/12) a year ago or so... for $200! The toms were almost "mint," but the BD had some ugly stains IN the wrap, and I mean UGLY. It turned out that it was a rewrap job, using the tape method -- but the stains actually came from the inside! Some type of chemical reaction between glue residue (left over from the original wrap) and the new wrap itself, I'm supposing.

So... clean off the old glue as much as humanly possible, and seal it!

Bill

I found a quart can of MinnWax "Sanding Sealer" that I've been using. I think it's just thinned-down poly or shellac. Looks like it will work just fine.

I've decided to to strip the beige paint from the inside of the bass drum because it looked terrible. The natural wood finish looks so much better, especially the re-rings. I've been using an old can of Formby's Furniture Restorer with double-O steel wool. Does anyone have a better paint remover suggestion for this purpose? I've got a few holes to plug too so sanding is going to be happening.

Thanks,

Mark

de-waxed shellac is an excellent sealer.

As for a stripper, personally, I only use circa 1850. Very gentle to wood and very effective.

Excellent.

I will buy a can.

Thanks,

Mark