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Rogers Collet Thread Size?

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Greetings,

Anyone know what the thread size is? I thought it would be 3/4" Fine Thread (3/4" x 16 TPI), but a 3/4"-16 nut goes on the collet "finger" smooth for about a half turn then completely stops. Same deal when trying a 3/4"-16 screw into a Collet nose.

I was thinking about getting a few aftermarket, standard wing nuts to replace my cast, cracked collet noses (even if it doesn't look "factory"), but it looks like they might be an odd thread size? Even if it was a 3/4"-16 wing nut, I don't know anyone that makes one, according to Google searches (everything I'm finding is for coarse thread 3/4" - 10 TPI).

Looks like I might have to shell out $60 a piece for the Steve Ellis repros. Anyone else have any solutions?

Posted on 3 years ago
#1
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You need the correct collet nuts not just any nut with the same thread. Why not contact the person you got the kit from? I thought in another thread you said he was "THE Rodgers guy"? Perhaps he can help you out with some good used machined collet nuts (noses).

Posted on 3 years ago
#2
Posts: 1459 Threads: 87
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Take a collet nose to a real specialty hardware store - Not Home Depot who will have standard sizes.

Using a thread gauge, it looks like 3/4 - 20 tpi.

Posted on 3 years ago
#3
Posts: 350 Threads: 33
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I've never really tried that, but I'll go out on a limb here and guess that the it is because the collet nose is probably somewhat conical inside so that it can gradually compress the the collet tines to squeeze the hex rod. The nose doesn't really grip until it has moved the tines into a position where the threads can really grip.

Or I may be completely wrong!

1974-75 Rogers Starlighter IV New England White 13/16/22 (w/Dyna)
1964-67 Rogers Blue Glass Glitter 12/14/16/20
early Oaklawn Camco Blue Moire 12/14/20
1926 Super Ludwig 5x14
1960-ish Ludwig COB 5x14 Super Sensitive
1960-ish Ludwig COB 6.5x14 Super Sensitive
1970 Ludwig COB Cut-Badge 5x14 Supra Phonic

Looking for a Camco Aristocrat SD in Blue Moire!!
Posted on 3 years ago
#4
Posts: 1459 Threads: 87
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kdg has the right idea.

FYI - Threads are a straight diameter and not tapered themselves. The end of the nose is tapered slightly and this is where the "crush" come into play to tighten on the tines tapered ends. Try putting the nose on backward and you will see the difference in the opening from the threaded end.

With that in mind, using a regular nut on the mounts will not provide and tension on the tines to grip the hex arm.

Posted on 3 years ago
#5
Posts: 350 Threads: 33
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Makes Sense!!

1974-75 Rogers Starlighter IV New England White 13/16/22 (w/Dyna)
1964-67 Rogers Blue Glass Glitter 12/14/16/20
early Oaklawn Camco Blue Moire 12/14/20
1926 Super Ludwig 5x14
1960-ish Ludwig COB 5x14 Super Sensitive
1960-ish Ludwig COB 6.5x14 Super Sensitive
1970 Ludwig COB Cut-Badge 5x14 Supra Phonic

Looking for a Camco Aristocrat SD in Blue Moire!!
Posted on 3 years ago
#6
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From amosguy

kdg has the right idea.FYI - Threads are a straight diameter and not tapered themselves. The end of the nose is tapered slightly and this is where the "crush" come into play to tighten on the tines tapered ends. Try putting the nose on backward and you will see the difference in the opening from the threaded end.With that in mind, using a regular nut on the mounts will not provide and tension on the tines to grip the hex arm.

amosguy is correct about the nose! You guys got me wondering about this, so I just grabbed one of my spare Swivo mounts and took some pictures.

As you can see, the threads only extend a little more than halfway up the nose. And, as previously mentioned, it is that conical nose section that exerts pressure on the fingers to close them and really grasp the hex shaft. Is it any wonder that the majority of cast noses fail?!!

-Mark

Posted on 3 years ago
#7
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Hi V!

You can also check with Al Drew, who owns Al Drew Music in Woonsocket, Rhode Island. The number there is 401-769-3552. Al was offering machined noses for around $25 each, but that was some time ago. I bought one from him, but the chrome plating was coming off! Al sent another one!

Steve Ellis does have excellent repro noses, but they are expensive!

-Mark

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Posted on 3 years ago
#8
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From idrum4fun

amosguy is correct about the nose! it is that conical nose section that exerts pressure on the fingers to close them and really grasp the hex shaft.-Mark

Exactly, it's the cone and taper design that provides the holding force. If you're replacing a collet nut you need to know the thread diameter, the thread pitch AND the collet type and taper. As I stated earlier, the OP needs a correct Rodgers collet nut (nose).

Posted on 3 years ago
#9
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From slingerfan

Exactly, it's the cone and taper design that provides the holding force. If you're replacing a collet nut you need to know the thread diameter, the thread pitch AND the collet type and taper. As I stated earlier, the OP needs a correct Rodgers collet nut (nose).

+1 with what Slingerfan said! I'd check with Al Drew first. If he doesn't have them, your next best option is Steve Ellis. Yes, his noses are pricey, but they're well-made and will outlive your drums! You can also check eBay for originals, but I'm finding that they are really going up in price. Many aren't perfect and I'd rather have an Ellis repro!

-Mark

Posted on 3 years ago
#10
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