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Rogers Cleveland Bass: What to do? Last viewed: 9 hours ago

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Got a very nice Rogers bass in a trade, but don't know what to do with it...

Cleveland badge number puts it around 1960 (the old 3-ply Jasper shell with wide rerings and shallow bearing edges). It's the first 22" Cleveland bass I've come across; the others were all 20". It sounds absolutely tremendous, but except for the collets, all the hardware is wrong. Wrong hoops (Fullertons with silver inlay), Fullerton T-rods, and it's obviously been redrilled for beavertails. The strange collect configuration (tom mount, ride cymbal mount, splash mount, and accessory knobby) all look factory, but could be either a custom order or a modification done later (didn't the Cozy Cole, Constellation, and Festival setups have tons of crazy collets like this?).

So the question is what should I do with this Frankendrum? I thought about keeping it as a player, adding it to my current early Dayton 4-piece WMP set to make a Louie Bellson setup, but the wrap doesn't blend in well (the wrap is quite a bit more yellowed than the bright sunlight makes it appear). Spending a fortune retrofitting with original Cleveland hardware and crack-prone B&B's makes no sense as it's already been drilled out (this will never be an "original" drum). Selling it as-is wouldn't fetch nearly the price I could get by parting it out (already been offered a nice price just for the knobby and accessory L-arm), but I don't want to become one of those drum strippers who take apart nice drums just to profit from those of us who put them back together. If I put it on eBay, someone's going to buy it just to strip it anyway, so maybe I should just keep it for parts myself?

What would you guys do?

Mike C.

[Attachment: 63379] [Attachment: 63380]

-No Guru... still learning more every day-
Posted on 11 years ago
#1
Posts: 264 Threads: 55
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That's a tough one, man. Looks damn good in the photo you posted. If it were me I would look for the parts to complete it in its original state and sell the current hardware. The earlier hardware is more expensive and harder to find which is obvious.

1962 Slingerland Studio King Blue Glass Glitter
1967 Ludwig Super Classic Psych Red FOR SALE
1972 Ludwig Hollywood 3 ply WMP
1970 Rogers Holiday 22"/12"/13"/16"/18"
Posted on 11 years ago
#2
Posts: 5356 Threads: 87
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My project kit has the same 22" Jasper shell. I didnt have the heart to drill them for the BT lugs though. Man that's a really sweet drum. I'd hang onto it a while. Take your time to decide what to do. If it were mine I'd keep that sucker and play it!! Wish I was in a better postion to make you a nice offer on it too. Just too much on my plate at the moment. Either way it's a nice score and best of luck with it. Cool1

Glenn.

Not a guru just havin fun with some old dusty drums.
Posted on 11 years ago
#3
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Mike, the 2 side collets are Fullerton-era cast, and the middle collet is the earlier (and stronger)machined version. So who knows what configuration this drum started life as. I like your idea of using it w your WMP Dayton kit, if you like the sku.d.

1966 Rogers Holidays 8x12, 9x13, 16x16, 14x20, 14x22, with matching 5x14 Powertone in BDP
1967 Rogers Dynasonic in COB
Posted on 11 years ago
#4
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As a lover of Rogers drums i say keep her for awhile until you know what you want to do and eventually you will-never an easy decision at the best of times.She sure looks beautiful and a 22" from the Cleveland era...don`t seem to see many of those around-bet she sounds killer too!Best of luck on your decision Mike.

Wayne

1967 Rogers Cleveland Champagne Sparkle
20,16,13,13.
1967/68 Rogers Dayton Champagne Sparkle
20,16,13,13.
1966 Rogers cob 7 Line Dynasonic Snare.
1967 Rogers "Humberto Morales" Timbales.
1980 Ludwig B/O badge 14x 6.5 Black Beauty Snare.
1980 Ludwig B/O badge Red Cortex
22,22,18,16,15,14,13.
1988 Sonor "Horst Link" HLD 590 14x8 Bronze Snare
Posted on 11 years ago
#5
Posts: 430 Threads: 15
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If you did try to sell it, how much would you want for it?

Posted on 11 years ago
#6
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From MikeCozy57

Mike, the 2 side collets are Fullerton-era cast, and the middle collet is the earlier (and stronger)machined version. So who knows what configuration this drum started life as. I like your idea of using it w your WMP Dayton kit, if you like the sku.d.

Mike,

I threw those two cast collets on the mounts just so they wouldn't look bare. I should have pointed out that all three swivo mounts are indeed old Clevelands with only one retaining the original machined collet. I also should have mentioned that I found it really odd that these old mounts don't accept the later Dayton and Fullerton telescoping cymbal posts or tom mount arms, then I remembered a whole thread here some time ago about the differences in the very early mounts vs the later, specifically how a member thought his Cleveland mounts were damaged because he couldn't get a tom arm into one. These older mounts are strange. The 6 corners of the hex posts won't enter into the mount if they are lined up with the 6 slots of the receiving sleeve; you have to line up the corners of the post with the tabs of the sleeve. I’ve tried to illustrate this below. I think it was DanC who gave a better explanation. Either way, I'm not crazy about these old mounts even with the machined collets.

Thanks everyone for your comments and opinions. A 22” 3-ply Cleveland may not be a super rare beast, but it still may be worth keeping in the arsenal, so I think I’ll let this bass marinate awhile in the basement with all its brothers and sisters in the Rogers family until it either grows on me or I get irritated by its mismatched hardware. I’m not going to put any money into it, but if it’s ever needed to complete anyone’s project, you know where it is. I'll try to post a picture of it paired up with my 4-piece set.

Dan: I'll PM you

Mike C.

[Attachment: 63404]

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-No Guru... still learning more every day-
Posted on 11 years ago
#7
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Like others have said, it looks really nice. If you play out with it, your average audience member is never going to know it's a Frankendrum. Besides, you said it "sounds absolutely tremendous". :)

Good luck with your decision.

-Tim

Posted on 11 years ago
#8
Posts: 5356 Threads: 87
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Mike thanks for the heads on up the hardware/mount differences. My 13" tom has that weird early short vertical bolt pattern for the tom mount. So I'll need Cleve specifc hardware for that and the rest. I'll be lucky if I can find one of those tom mounts even LOL. It's 1.750" on center. Strange stuff. Anyway good to know this saved me a ton of possible headaches and cash!

Glenn.

Not a guru just havin fun with some old dusty drums.
Posted on 11 years ago
#9
Posts: 304 Threads: 16
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From mchair303

Thanks everyone for your comments and opinions. A 22” 3-ply Cleveland may not be a super rare beast, but it still may be worth keeping in the arsenal, so I think I’ll let this bass marinate awhile in the basement with all its brothers and sisters in the Rogers family until it either grows on me or I get irritated by its mismatched hardware.

A 3 ply Cleveland 22" bass drum is indeed harder to find than one would think. Plentiful, they are not. I have 2 and consider myself lucky!

Dave

Posted on 11 years ago
#10
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