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Restoring Shine on Oyster Wrap

Posts: 299 Threads: 27
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Quoted post

Question for the wet sanders. I just got a WMP Slingerland mid '60's club set that is yellowed. After reading this thread, I am intrigued by the possibility of seeing it be white again. How smart (dumb?) would it be for a first time wet sander with no experience to tackle this as their first project?I just stumbled onto this forum. It is great! Lots of really useful info. Thanks all.

It would be beyond stupid to wet sand a wrap, even more so

if its your first time wet sanding. Enjoy the yellow WMP...

Harrison
Posted on 17 years ago
#21
Posts: 388 Threads: 49
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Quoted post

Aluminum foil works great too. I took a 5-piece BMP Slingerland set from disgusting to mint condition by using the aluminum foil on all the chrome. Just use the shiny side and dip it in water. The dirt comes off as a black liquid, just rinse that and dry. The chrome looks brand new. There were absolutely no scratches either. The wrap was in excellent condition and still is, but i'd love to find a great product to bring the shine out

Would this work on the shell and lugs of a snare, or only the rims. I'd hate to scratch up the chrome finish on the shell.

Posted on 17 years ago
#22
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I have done one or two dumb things in my life, but being even more so than beyond stupid is way too much for even someone like me. The wrap stays as is. I am sure I will learn to love it.

Thanks,

David

Posted on 17 years ago
#23
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Sorry to chime in, but wet sending (x body guy) is just a very fine grit (wet) grade sandpaper, which makes the sanding process more smooth when water is added. It also lets you constantly rinse the area to keep it clean of sanding grit.

Posted on 17 years ago
#24
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The wet sanded finish will be dull and matte. Wet sanding is not intended to bring out shine but to take off the top layer of oxidation on painted surfaces to prepare them for additional paint/topcoat.

After wet sanding you will still need to restore the shine. An additional product + buffing will do that.

As far as buffing out a car's finish....it is not done with sand paper but with a buffer and rubbing compound which is a wax with a very fine abrasive in it. You are kind of doing both steps noted above in one process.

Never tried any of this on wraps. I try to buy drums with wraps in the condition I like and preserve from there.

Posted on 17 years ago
#25
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this may be out of reach for some,but it works the best.novus plastic polish is most commonly used,but i use the buffing machine at work to buff out scuffs and scratches on drum wraps.we use it to buff gloss finishes,but it works great for wraps and acrylics too.sometimes even drum heads(and scuffed and scratched cd's and dvd's) i don't know what the rpm is on the machine,but its really fast.i do know its not as fast as a metal buffing machine,which is a higher rpm.

there's 2 wheels: the hard wheel and the soft-or fine wheel.you use the fine wheel only.apply the fine wheel compound and buff the drum(with everything taken off the drum of course) if you don't want to take off the badge,you just got to make sure to buff around it.if you have any cracked or lifting wrap areas around the lug holes,trim them first so the wheel doesn't grab and either damage the wrap or so it doesn't pull the drum down and away from you.if your seam is kifting,or you want to make sure the wheel will not lift the seam,repair the seam or,since the wheel's rotation is towards you,buff the drum with the seam pointing down.as you lift up and down on the drum,the seam won't get caught under the wheel.

start buffing lightly just to get a feel for the wheel(at this point i assume someone would find a friend with a buffing machine)generally,you'll see quick results on lite scuffs.the leavier the damage,the harder you need to buff those areas.

this will generally bring back the shine of the wrap.i just wrapped a snare using old out of print wrap that had no protective covering.it was all scuffed up and dirty.i wrapped the drum first(did not drill for holes) and buffed the wrap with no problems.there was some old tape residue as well.for that i took acutone and LIGHTLY pulled it off with a rag.each peoblem has a seperate required fix,so be caucious.

as for yellowing,i never buffed wrap that has been yellowing.vintage drums (say 60's and back) generally yellows due to the way the material was made then.anything from the 70's and up should be a little easier to buff out yellowing based on the way wrap has been made since then.

if you can't find someone with a full size buffing machine,you can use a smaller buffing wheel that you can mount on your drill press or a bench grinder.in which case the wheels are easyto take on and off.the width of the wheels are alot smaller,but atleast its something.i also heard a guy use a hand held buffing machine(for cars)that's another option.good luck

http://www.drummerfish.weebly.com for drum parts, drum promos , swag, promo media and more for sale
Posted on 17 years ago
#26
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When it comes to mechanical buffing or polishing I would urge caution for those not familiar with such methods. I do things the old fashioned way, by hand and I'm glad I do because what happened to a guy I know would more than likely have happened to me...........

He was using a buffer on a 1960's WMP Wrap when one of the fibers of the wheel, or a string off of, something, caught an edge of the Wrap in a Lug Bolt Hole and that was the end of that wrap. Ripped a good chunk of the wrap right off!

The sad part of this is that he hasn't learned his lesson and still continues to try and prove that he can remove yellowing from WMP. So far he's batting zero on the yellowing but is batting 1000 on doing some serious damage to some nice Vintage Drums. Even without ripping the wrap he does some major gouging and always ends up with an uneven finish.................

I've always had good luck restoring the shine to wraps, or lacquers, with Flitz, using the Liquid Version. I find the Paste, which is stronger by the way, tends to get squished into areas where I don't want it while the liquid soaks into my applicator and is easier to control. I do prefer the stronger Paste on Metal Rims where it matters not how well I control where it goes..........

LVDC

All Catalog images shown in my posts were generated by me (scanning) and are from my personal files........
Posted on 17 years ago
#27
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ckroush

Aluminum foil works great too. I took a 5-piece BMP Slingerland set from disgusting to mint condition by using the aluminum foil on all the chrome. Just use the shiny side and dip it in water. The dirt comes off as a black liquid, just rinse that and dry. The chrome looks brand new. There were absolutely no scratches either. The wrap was in excellent condition and still is, but i'd love to find a great product to bring the shine out

QUOTE=JohnG]Would this work on the shell and lugs of a snare, or only the rims. I'd hate to scratch up the chrome finish on the shell.[/QUOTE]

Plating in reverse.. if you add a little baking or washing soda to the water you will increase the efficency..the difference in metals is creating a gavanic current , the foil is - the hardware + the oxides are being plated to the foil

This is the design behind products such as Metal brite

http://www.metalbrite.net/store/1770060/page/2

Posted on 17 years ago
#28
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