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Restoring Rusty Vintage Tension Rods

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The last tutorial I posted was warmly greeted. So in the interest of, 'Striking while the iron is hot,' I thought I'd post a short tutorial on the methods I use for saving/restoring old original parts to their former glory.

My way needs tools, but it works. Nothing terribly expensive I promise.

Make the rust go away, step by step: (Please see photo illustrations)

1. Soak tension rods in Dawn Dish Soap and warm water for 24 hours.

2. Fold a piece of 00-00 steel wool in the jaws of a pair of pliers. (see photo)

3. Place the threaded tip of the tension rod inside the fold and squeeze the

pliers gently. Don't put too much pressure on the pliers.

4. Attach a drum key and twist/thread the tension rod through the wad of steel wool until you reach the very top of the tension rod.

The tension rods will thread through the steel wool like it's being threaded

into a lug, winds right in all by itself. The tension rod will emerge out of the

other end of the plier jaws looking shiny and new.

Step 5 requires a thread cutting die.

5. Using a 12/24 thread cutting die, (see photo) wind/chase the length of the tension rod threaded portion through the die. The threads will be dressed and they will thread smooth as silk into any lug. Run the rods through the die until the die spins freely on the tension rod. Takes a little work, but it makes rusty old tension rods look and work like new.

For everything else.... I use a professional bench-mounted buffing station. 6"

cotton wheel. Cleans and polishes lugs, mounts, etc and the job comes out

looking 'professional.' You can find buffers on fleabay starting at $25 - $35

and up. Worthwhile investment if you do more than one or two kits a year. I use mine fairly often, so it was really worth the investment for me.

If you don't mind investing a little sweat equity, you won't have to buy any more replacement tension rods!

John

2 attachments
Too many great drums to list here!

http://www.walbergandauge.com/VintageVenue.htm
Posted on 13 years ago
#1
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You know they make drum keys to fit in your cordless drill for this very purpose right? Saves the strain on the wrist.

Also, to make things even faster, a block of wood with a 1/2" hole stuffed fairly tightly full of steel wool saves the fingers on the other hand. Put the tension rod in the drill, run it in and out of the block a couple times, presto!

For Sonor or Premier rods, use a slotted bit in your cordless drill, slip a piece of aquarium tubing or something similar onto the shaft of the bit so that it overhangs the slotted end by 3 - 6mm. Speed bit for slotted rods.

I would only use these bits in a drill for cleaning. Never for the actual assembly of the drum. Using power tools to assemble drums is idiotic.

Lastly, while I think it is overkill, always CHECK the thread on your rods before using a die on them. They ARE NOT all the same.

Learned this back in '89 from someone much smarter than me.

Posted on 13 years ago
#2
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Thanks Mike, great suggestions. I like the block idea. As far as threads are concerned, I pretty much stick to Ludwig drums from the 50's, 60's, 70's which all use a 'standardized' thread pitch so no worries on that count. Again, great suggestions. I guess I'm just a low-tech guy doing things the hard way. lol

John

Too many great drums to list here!

http://www.walbergandauge.com/VintageVenue.htm
Posted on 13 years ago
#3
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