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Restoring kick pedal: how to clean a bearing?

Posts: 1432 Threads: 110

Hello,

I just bought an almost vintage '910' model (looks like a tank, eh?), which obviously was produced in the early 80s.

In order to bring it back to life, I plan to disassemble it completely. What type of lubricant can I use - especially for cleaning of the bearing and the parts near the shaft from old grease residues?

Can I clean it completely with

- alcohol/ cleaning solvent or

- WD-40 first?

Or shall I leave the (grewish) fatty residue and do nothing (the dismounted bearing appears to be slightly turnable with a finger, but when pushing down the completed foot pedal, the motion of the beater stops at once after coming back from the front).

I read that WD-40 is not suitable for greasing afterwards. As I have a precision grease (with emergency running properties, commonly used in RC model making), is that suitable for the bearing, too?

Or is simple sewing machine oil just the best way?

Any advice would be appreciated greatly. Please kindly consider that I am from Germany and a general advice would be more helpful than lubricants which might not be available in my country.

Thanks - Ralf

Vintage STAR (= Pre-Tama) website: www.star-drums.de
Posted on 13 years ago
#1
Posts: 195 Threads: 30

You need to clean it out good with a solvent first. Get the old grease and dirt out first.

Then the bearing should be re-packed with new, commonly-available axle or gear grease. You should be able to find online or YouTube instructions for packing a bearing.

Bear in mind that standard skateboard bearings (for the wheels) are commonly used in pedals. Pearl, for example uses that size. Their new Demon uses expensive "Ninja" brand bearings, which are skateboard bearings. My Pearl Eliminators use NMB's, which are commonly-used lower-end skateboard bearings as well. It may be worth your time to try to match them up with new skate bearings.

Current gigging set:
Recent Ludwig Accent 13/16/18/26, (in Silver Sparkle), "updated" 70's Acrolite with cast batter hoop and Trick strainer/butt

Cymbals:
Zildjian K Custom Ride, Dream (Bliss and Contact) crashes and hats, and a Sabian Swish/China.

Other stuff:
60's Ludwig Champagne Sparkle "Traveler's Club Date", under construction. Click Here
70's Acrolite (under RE-construction)
Two 1960's mahogany 32" Ludwig bass drums with Imperial lugs.
Posted on 13 years ago
#2
Posts: 2197 Threads: 202

Alright-A 910 pedal-what is that?Any pictures?Bearings that are closed on both sides should be immersed in solvent and spun by hand to get out the gritty bits,then immersed in clean oil.Any looseness means NG-replace.

Posted on 13 years ago
#3
Posts: 1432 Threads: 110

Thanks for your comments.

@teverson-sr:

'... Alright-A 910 pedal-what is that? ...'

See pic below (taken out of an old Pearl catalogue).

Ugly, isn't it?:D

Ralf

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Vintage STAR (= Pre-Tama) website: www.star-drums.de
Posted on 13 years ago
#4
Posts: 2197 Threads: 202

Definitely related to it's predecessors,mechanically.Remember on this design the beater travel is adjustable by rotating the spring arm back.

Posted on 13 years ago
#5
Posts: 6524 Threads: 37

From Ralf

Thanks for your comments.@teverson-sr:'... Alright-A 910 pedal-what is that? ...'See pic below (taken out of an old Pearl catalogue).Ugly, isn't it?:DRalf

OMG it`s got a stick,...How many gears it got ?? (and it`s armoured) !!

It`s a drum,.....Hit It !!

.....76/#XK9207 Phonic Sound Machine D454/D-505 snares !i
Posted on 13 years ago
#6
Posts: 1432 Threads: 110

TWO (!) sticks (you've forgotten to include the one in the front with the black ball): additional gears to be prepared for all-terrain!

Ralf

Vintage STAR (= Pre-Tama) website: www.star-drums.de
Posted on 13 years ago
#7
Posts: 6524 Threads: 37

Holy sh*t,...It`s 4x4 !!

It`s a drum,.....Hit It !!

.....76/#XK9207 Phonic Sound Machine D454/D-505 snares !i
Posted on 13 years ago
#8
Posts: 16 Threads: 1

I clean old grease from small parts with a mixture of 5% mineral oil in hexane. If you have access to a sonic cleaning bath it will take about 5 minutes; if not let it soak overnight and use an old toothbrush (wear latex gloves and work in a well ventilated area away from ignition souces). The crud and grease will be easily removed and when the hexane evaporates it will leave a light oil film on the parts. Wipe the oil off whereever you don't want it. This is the easiest way to clean and lubricate hard to reach places, like the inside of bearings.

Posted on 13 years ago
#9
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