Howdy.

I would say the best way in any instance is to duplicate what the factories used, and that was likely a very fast setting highly nasty industrial grade contact cement. Slap that wrap on lickety split, rolly polly with a tool, trim excess at bearing edges-etc if need be, down the line it went. Drill holes, mount hardware, bada beep..They sure weren't using Elmer's Glue. Stuff would probably kill you, from Cancer. LOL

Yep, you have to be neat, like a surgeon with Contact Cement, take whatever precautions you like, masking around the area, having some small brushes to apply, and then keep the two parts apart for a good number of minutes. A hair dryer on low may even help speed drying.

And the really delicate part, is to get that glue under the wrap, by very gently lifting the wrap, without cracking-breaking the wrap, you dig?

Then press all back together firmly, even hold for a short while.

Dry time could take 20-30 minutes.

You should be good for the next 25 years.

If you were sloppy and have excess, something like Goof Off-etc will likely remove any tell tale signs of visible tell tale glue residues.

Companies like 3M make the really good stuff, snort that stuff for 6-8 hours straight like I have many times, you will be spaced, but something like the DAP Contact Cement from Home Depot will work just fine as well.

Just have an understanding-education about how contact cements are to be used.

This is perfect. Thank you for taking the time to write all of this up! I have some contact cement headed my way this morning, and hoping I'll be getting to work this afternoon.

Thanks again!

There's really nothing else to add Mark covered it well. But, I used a roller skate to roll the seam.

Again, I can't stress enough allowing the proper dry time with Contact Cements, It's better to err on longer dry times given any such product.

Properly dried before bonding, such cements-glues will be dry to the touch. Small makeshift small wedges or such to help keep/lift the wrap away from the shell while the cement dries will be wise.

Again, the product must be applied to "Both" pieces to be re-glued.

Be careful with wraps in how far you may lift them to apply cements, you don't wish to damage-crack the wrap. Don't go any further than necessary.

Some swear by the double-side tape method, and that is ok I have used it too BUT ( notice the big but). that is good for small size like 12 or 13 toms. For a BD nothing beats contact cement. I normally center the wrap on the shell with small clip; after I'm satisfied with the alignment I place a 2x1 piece of wood, edge side across the shell and clamp it, holding securely the wrap in place.

Then I start the process of the contact cement. One side first then the other side. It may seem a bit cumbersome at first but it the method that gives me the best results. My wrap is always centered and secure.

As far as using the tape I only use " FAST TAPE" strong but very forgiving.

Both of these techniques have worked for me when there is a full width overlap...like 3/4 inch or more. Some wraps are quite resistant to that type of repair. Sometimes the wrap curls up. When the overlap has integrity but for the 3/8 inch curl, I clamped a long straight edge, happened to be a sturdy long level, used a fresh blade in a utility knife and carefully cut it off, and maybe relic it just a bit.