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Repairing Cracks in Slingerland Shells

Posts: 7 Threads: 2

Just bought some old Slingerland drums with a snare, bass and tom. Date on the snare is February 23, 1960 and they are marked P-040. The blue sparkle wrap, rims, lugs, baring edges and re-rings, are all in very good shape for the age. The snare looks like a ply of mahogany on the inside and the tom looks like the inside ply is maple. Only issue is, the snare drum has several cracks on the inside ply. The tom does too but not as bad. Other than the cracks on the inside ply, the drums seem very solid and look great.

Because the drums are in such good condition otherwise, I want to fix the cracks. I have attached some pictures of the cracks in the snare shell. From what I can tell, only the inside layer is affected and it has separated from the layer behind it in a few places. Any advice on how to deal with this in the most practical way would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance for any info you may have.

Posted on 11 years ago
#1
Posts: 6524 Threads: 37

If the cracks are only on the inner layer and not through the drum, I would suggest useing a suringe to inject Elmer`s wood glue, clamp down the lifting, just after clamping wipe away the excess, then after dry, find a furniture wax stick in simalar color to fill the cracks. You could find a kids crayon in the same color and fill it too, wipeing away excess when needed. Wax wipes away smoother and easier than wood filler and both will still show !i

It`s a drum,.....Hit It !!

.....76/#XK9207 Phonic Sound Machine D454/D-505 snares !i
Posted on 11 years ago
#2
Posts: 7 Threads: 2

Thanks Odd Ball. I have read about this method. I have also read about using epoxy and/or a coating of lacquer over the cracks to "seal things in". Are you aware of any advantages or disadvantages to either method?

Posted on 11 years ago
#3
Posts: 6524 Threads: 37

Any kind of laqure will shine. You can thin water based glue to get it to soak into cracks that have lifting but not too much.

It`s a drum,.....Hit It !!

.....76/#XK9207 Phonic Sound Machine D454/D-505 snares !i
Posted on 11 years ago
#4
Posts: 7 Threads: 2

I was thinking in terms of gluing down the lifting with epoxy and then coating the entire inside of the drum with lacquer. I am not so concerned with looks as I am stability. If you think wood glue would do the trick, then that sounds like an easier method. Another question I have is what kind of clamp do you recommend to clamp lifting on a floor tom or bass drum if the lifting is far from the edge, say 8 to 10 inches away?

Thanks again for your helpful responses.

Posted on 11 years ago
#5
Posts: 1537 Threads: 117

This post may help. I was dealing (still are) with 90 degree issues. Yours is easy in that won't be hard to build a rounded buck to clamp everything nice and tight.

Big carpenter clamps can be had at Harbour Freight for 5 bucks a pop. Get four.

Once glued back down doubt the expoxy will be needed. I could be mistaken but not a fan of coating the insides of drums. Kills the tone.

Creighton

http://www.vintagedrumforum.com/showthread.php?t=35520&highlight=slingy+days

Nothing special here but I like them.
Posted on 11 years ago
#6
Posts: 7 Threads: 2

Thanks Creighton. Since the cracks are mostly horizontal and go for several inches as shown in the picture, I am trying to picture how I need to go about clamping. Should I use 2 Vertical bucks at a time with a clamp at the ends of each one, or should I devise something that will work horizontally with 4 clamps? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Hope my question makes sense.

Posted on 11 years ago
#7
Posts: 1537 Threads: 117

don't do anything until others chime in. my approach would be jigsaw the inner curve and outer curve to bucks that are flat on the topside. If you can, air compressor blast all the dust out of the cracks.

Apply glue with syringe, air compressor to force the glue deep into the cracks. press in place and use warm water on a damp rag to remove glue seepage. Piece of plastic top and bottom so you don't glue the bucks to the shell. Clamp firm. Remove clamps/bucks wipe any glue seepage and re clamp to firm. Don't want tight. will force too much glue out of the join.

Clamps opposing. Two inner/two outer

That is how I would do it. wait a bit and see if anyone has a better way.

Creighton

Nothing special here but I like them.
Posted on 11 years ago
#8
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