I would say most likely no on the solder and flux thing

When newly manufactured the spade or flat piece

has the odd shaped hole punched into it

the shaft has a corrosponding pin machined in the end

in order to join up with the hole in the flat peice

once joined together the end of the pin on the shaft

is peaned over to make a firm hold

the factory usees sort of a criss cross method of peaning the end of the pin

Over the years and with all the pounding and attempts to adjust the tom

that union gets loose and sloppy

I have many such pieces with the same issue

Line the jaws of a bench vise with something like cardboard

to protect the knuled shaft secure the piece in the vise

use a hammer and cold chisel

To try and mash enough of the metal over to make the two pieces snug

following as best as possible the factory criss crossed pattern

This method works better on some of those pieces than with others

Some are just too far gone and then some actual light welding or replacement may be all you can do

But ..I do not think plumber's solder and flux will be strong enough Good Luck

My TorDor kit I got used in 1976 has the same mount. Mine loosened up after a couple of years of playing and eventually broke. My dad had it welded and it held for a while then loosened up and broke again. I still have the kit, but found a replacement online. It is cheap metal and honestly I have not played those drums much at all since 1982 or so.

Thanks to the two of you,

Kenwood, you gave an excellent description of the manufacturing method. My pin is "peaned" not in a cross pattern, but in two parallel lines. I wonder if there is someone out there who makes a modern replacement?

I guess if no one is completely sure, it won't hurt to try! I will post pics for sure, and of the kit as well. I don't hear a lot about Baxter kits. This one has the Japan markings on several of pcs of hardware...looks very 60's or 70's, and a very nice red pearl finish too...

That`s white steel and you can`t weld it. I don`t see a vise tight enough to forge that mushroom over either.

I`d put the bar other end on the anvil and put a cup in the center with a 10 lb. ballpeen then flip it around and hit it with the flat head to widen it. It`s brittle and wont bend like a nail, it`ll be more like the rolls on a well used hammer. I think if you hit it with a cold chisel instead of press/ballpeen it it you`ll break a chunk off.

I think your plumbers solder idea might work assuming you can wick the solder into the area between the spade and knurled shaft. I don't know if the solder will attach itself to the spade and shaft but if you filled the area between the two with solder the spade should stop moving. It would not be as strong as a weld and the softer metal of the solder will likely give way over time but in the short term I would expect it to hold.

Most of my kits are for display but of the few that I have set up to actually play

I use rims mounts bracketed to a couple cymbal stands

I buy a lot of used Pulse brand Taiwanese starter kits

Mainly for the twelve and thirteen inch rims mount hardware

This way I can side step the old spade mounting system all together

While making no actual modifications to my vintage Japanese shells

I find them to be much more stable and adjustable for playing for me

I've had two of these mounts "tightened" about three years ago. The gentleman who welded the mounts was definitely a pro. The bead is very fine yet strong. They have never come loose. The heat though will discolor the chrome. If you have the inclination and money for re-chroming, your mount will look great. Personally, I can live with the discoloration.

Brian

Thanks everyone,

Hmmm...not sure if it's white-metal and can't be welded, or if my solution might work or not? I guess thomasehirshiii has an interesting take on it - that simply filling in the empty moving space should firm up the two pieces. The flux should have the solder flow properly into the tight space.

I will report back with my experience.

I found someone locally who does welding - he had a mobile repair truck, and was willing to do such a small job. Now the mount is solid as a rock!

Here's some pics of the kit:

http://www.vintagedrumforum.com/showthread.php?t=49484