Hi!
I've got a Pearl CZX studio kit recently which is in a very good condition. The laquer ("crimson quartz", some kind of purple sparkle) has some minor surface scratches and looks dim/faint in some small areas. I would like to polish this a little bit but i'm unsure about the best polishing..
I've heard already about the novus system for wraps, but is there any stuff like that for lacquer finishes?
You would have to treat your lacquer finish a lot like an old car with a lacquer paint finish. Fine scratches can be removed by wet-sanding with a fine grit wet/dry sandpaper, then buffed out to a high gloss with rubbing compound, then a coat of carnuba wax to seal the finish. A couple of recommendations when using this method before you try it.....do this with a bare drumshell (no hardware attached to it), use as fine a grit sandpaper as you can get away with. If you choose to machine buff the finish rather than hand buff it, go slowly as you may burn through the finish! Also, pick up some "beeswax", the kind they use for canning jams and such. You want to use this on the bearing edges before you get water anywhere near the drumshell. This will help seal the edges from getting water damaged. Also, when using the wet/dry sandpaper wet, use a touch of dishwashing detergent in the water, it will make it easier for it to glide over the painted surface. Go slow, try small areas at a time until you get the hang of it. As long as the scratches aren't deep or all the way to the bare wood, this method should work fine.
Right on Ludwig-dude
One other thing. After your done wet sanding, a good idea is if you have one is an air compressor to blow out the water in the holes. You Don't want the water to seep into the plys and start seperating.
Well I spray lacquers every day around here but dont know what is on your drum. I think the other members are telling you the right thing but I have never tried to "buff" a clear finish if that is indeed what you have. I have wet sanded and buffed out cars with lac paint jobs. I would just suggest (if it has not already) cleaning the shells with some mineral spirits to remove any old wax or residue before sanding so you dont grind it into the finish. Then I would wet sand, as recomended above, a small space on the bottom of the bass drum and see if it will buff out. The other guys are more than likely correct but I would still do a test to be safe. If it works then take their advce and remove all of the lugs and mounts. As warned, be carful with electric buffer, It will burn your fiish. I wet sanded and hand buffed my 1940 Ford coupe all by hand, no electric buffer, no burns. Have fun, and let us know how it goes please.
Jeff C
Wow, thanks a lot for those good advices! I will start tomorrow to gather the material..
Btw. which kind of sandpaper would you propose for the scratches? 2000? I've never used such fine sandpaper, so i don't have an idea and don't want to ruin my shells :)
Well I spray lacquers every day around here but dont know what is on your drum. I think the other members are telling you the right thing but I have never tried to "buff" a clear finish if that is indeed what you have. I have wet sanded and buffed out cars with lac paint jobs. I would just suggest (if it has not already) cleaning the shells with some mineral spirits to remove any old wax or residue before sanding so you dont grind it into the finish. Then I would wet sand, as recomended above, a small space on the bottom of the bass drum and see if it will buff out. The other guys are more than likely correct but I would still do a test to be safe. If it works then take their advce and remove all of the lugs and mounts. As warned, be carful with electric buffer, It will burn your fiish. I wet sanded and hand buffed my 1940 Ford coupe all by hand, no electric buffer, no burns. Have fun, and let us know how it goes please.Jeff C
Thanks Jeff, that sounds like an advice from someone who knows what he's talking about! I'm going to do all by hand, i'm not trusting my skills with an electric buffer :) I have an unused 10" Tom in the same finish that i can use for testing, so i can practice first and then go for the bassdrum. I will report back when i've done the 10" !
I have never used 2000 grit paper either. Seems to me we sanded the car with 600 0r 800 grit, black wet/dry paper. If this were a cabinet and we were using my products you would scuff sand them with 220 and spray new lac on them, but its not so gee I just wasted ten seconds of my day typing that. The guys that have done this before on drums are the one to listen to, I just wanted to give my two cents as well, people are always helping me and I am trying to give back. Lidwig dude has laid it out for you, sounds like he has done this. Here is a picture of the car for your enjoyment.
Jeff C
Totally non related......you live in a log cabin Jeff?I am envious,its always something I wanted to do....and the Ford looks great alsoCool Dude
Steve B
Totally non related......you live in a log cabin Jeff?I am envious,its always something I wanted to do....and the Ford looks great alsoCool DudeSteve B
Well its a house I built with 2x6 ext walls and 2x8 lodgepole pine log siding. all of the modern stuff, geothermal heat, hot water heated garage and shop floors, plastered walls inside oak floors throughout, lots of wood but rustic on the exterior. Thank you, I built hundreds of homes and wanted to do one for myself, now I can never retire,lol.
Ok back to the drums, we want pics of your project here polishing old shells!
Jef C
I have grits up to 12,000 used for plastic modeling so they are out there (used for polishing clear parts like Aircraft canopies).
Granted they are probably too fine to start out with.
