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? re "matching" serial numbers on vintage kits

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I'm still learning about variables impacting the value of vintage sets and I'm unclear about the significance of matching serial numbers.

I've described before my Ludwig BOP set that I acquired over the couple of years that I was in junior high. I don't mean to sound like I'm complaining but my parents didn't want to "spoil me" with one big purchase...so for Christmas 1965, they got me started with a 20" bass #41958, acrolite snare #22496, high hat and ride. I later added a 16" tom #369040 and a 13" tom (that unfortunately I no longer have). Then I added a 12" tom #438119 but after using the double toms for a while, I decided to go back to one tom and I traded in the 13" (don't ask why - I don't know or don't remember). Earlier this year I got from ebay a 13" tom (all the way from Hawaii!) #497102.

So to review I now have an "unmatched" set of all original wrap BOP:

20" bass #41958 - has a slightly but noticeably lighter wrap than the toms

12" tom #438119 - white felt baseball bat muffler

13" tom #497102 - white felt baseball bat

16" tom #369040 - white felt baseball bat

acrolite snare #22496 w/ red felt baseball bat

While I don't have an immediate interest in selling this set I am curious about its value as a "player's" set vs. a "collectable" set. How much do unmatched numbers limit a set's collect-ability? Would a 22" bass #668834 currently on ebay be a good investment in terms of matching the Ringo sizes (22", 13", 16") even if it's a bit newer based on the head logo? I'd still have the 20" bass and 12" tom with the hope of finding a 14" tom for a smaller set.

eBay item:VINT 60's LUDWIG 22" KICK DRUM>RINGO BLACK OYSTER PEARL (#250252655812) Sorry I can't get this to link.

I have been watching BOP drums on ebay and am confused about why one set will go for $5100 and another for only $1500.

Sorry for the long post but I'd be very grateful for any insights.

RQ

Posted on 16 years ago
#1
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Mostly with vintage kits, you are going to get a range of serial numbers in the same kit. Its just how things were done then. For instance in a 69 early Fullerton Rogers....... you can find a kit that was purchased new, original owner, that will have a no border Powertone Fullerton tag, speckled interior. A Holiday Dayton tag, same speckled interior, A Holiday Cleveland tag, again same speckled interior, and possibly a Powertone snare with a Dayton tag, and slightly different speckled interior. Because of the interior you can know that kit came together (and of course the original owner provenance). Cleveland drums never had a speckled gray interior. And Cleveland drums were not produced in Fullerton. But there was a wad of tags that got used early on in the start up of production in Fullerton CA.

They werent focussed on 2001, 2001, 2003, 2004 series of numbers in kits that went out, because they werent necessarily building kits. They were filling orders and building drums.

I am very fortunate to have a Rogers 1964 Cleveland kit with serials in a span of 62 between the three drums. But thats kind of rare. My 66 Dayton kit, has two dayton tag drums, and one tagged Cleveland. again, an original kit. I added a 14x14 FT that just happened to be in the exact range as the two Dayton tagged drums.

Rogers Drums Big R era 1975-1984 Dating Guide.
http://www.vintagedrumforum.com/showthread.php?t=24048
Posted on 16 years ago
#2
Posts: 5173 Threads: 188
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For me, the numbers mean a lot -in terms of the way I collect. I collect vintage Ludwig (mostly) kits and I see the numbers as being indicative of a drum set that left the factory as a "family" and stayed together as one.

I guess it's the fact that the togetherness of matched kits is often compromised over the course of time for one reason or another...like the example you gave...that makes some kits more desirable than others. It's not necessarily anyone's fault. These things happen!Burger Kin However, I always try to collect the most-complete and closely-matched kits I can find.

Your grouping of drums (20/12/13/16) doesn't form any named Ludwig configuration, either, so that makes them less-desirable to a collector. If, for example, you had a 14 X 14 floor tom, then you could make a "Downbeat" configuration with the 20 and the 12. Or, you could make a "Super Classic" if you got the 22" bass drum and hooked it up with the 13 and the 16...Or, if you had the 22" bass drum, you could make a "Big Beat" with all of the drums.

"Matching" is the key word for me when I look for collectible kits. Your numbers are pretty close!

"God is dead." -Nietzsche

"Nietzsche is dead." -God
Posted on 16 years ago
#3
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Thanks for the excellent explanations guys - they make sense but I didn't bid on the 22" bass - opted for peace on the home front instead...for now.

Posted on 16 years ago
#4
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