That tom mount set-up puts these in the early 70s era. Those are probalby nicer than any other CBs availble. Aged wood=better noise...I mean tone.

Know what CB stands for?.........Time's up...........

Carl Bruno!

Carl Bruno! No kidding? Now the big question is, what does the 700 stand for?

Interesting fun fact about these drums: The previous owner had lived in Mississippi, and bought them used from "Peavey Music" in Meridian, MS. Apparently, that was the original store/location where Peavey got their start.

The drums are actually in pretty good shape. It is a dark wood that's pretty sturdy and is heavier than most of today's shells. They have a nice red gllitter wrap. It catches light more brilliantly than a regular sparkle does. One of the rack toms has wrap that is just ever so slightly a different shade of red than the other drums, but it is not from fading. The "sparkle/glitter flakes" are also a bit bigger on that drum. The wrap appears original, though. Does anyone know what type of wood those were made from?

The early drums were plain ol' Lauan (asian)mahogany.I remember some later concert tom sets being lined with contact paper from the factory.I owned a 20,12,14,5 1/2 x14 set around 1980.I think i have a rep of being pretty open minded about cheap drums,but these had absolutely NO redeeming qualities.Open grain lauan that can't take an edge without splitting.Horrible extra spindly hardware.I actually own an International series bass that I'm considering leaving the heads on and suspending some M-80's inside the vent hole.....

OK, this is a mahogany lauan and the shells should be this configuration as these are literally the shells just before the early exports. At the time they introduced the Export shell, the composition seems to have changed into the first gen shells all the drums from Pearl would be made from. Before the Export line, the distributors could still specify the type of shell. Toms are usually 6 ply, with or without a thin maple inner ply, floor tom 6 or 9 ply with or without a thin maple inner veneer and bass 9 ply with or without thin maple inner veneer And those late 60s-early 70s wraps had a much larger glitter chip in them. I have an orange sparkel/glitter that has the same effect. Larger particles, and more of them, will catch the light and reflect it more readily, hence why a number of manufacturers used the glass glitter instead of regular sparkles. Looks so much cooler under lights.

Thanks for the info, jonnistix. Teverson, I know you may have an open mind about cheap drums (as do I), but beauty is always in the eye (or in this case ear) of the beholder. I think that I am influenced by the fact that I got a 4 piece kit, and 70's Acrolite snare and a Slingerland Strap Drive "Big S" pedal all for $95! I'm sure they wouldn't sound nearly as good or look as cool if I had paid $500.

I know what you mean about the luan that seems to be old, dry and splits easily. I am actually going to have the bearing edges re-cut on these (was there even a bearing edge in the first place ha ha) by Precision Drum Company. Most of the edges were solid and split free, but there was one spot on the 13" tom were it had split/flaked pretty good near the bearing edge, and the edge was so soft that I could literally move it back and forth with my thumb, like it was made of cardboard! Luckily, I was able to fix it. I put a generous amount of wood filler in and around it. After sanding it down, I put 8 or 9 coats of polyurethane on it. This really stiffened it up good, and now it's nice and solid. Even if the bearing edges aren't perfect after Precision's re-cut (and they do AWESOME work), I'm sure they'll be light years ahead of where they are now!

Best of luck with that project-there is nothing more satisfying than bringing them back from the grave.I just had some very good luck cutting my own edges.Cut down some "hair band" toms-11X12 and 12X13 to 9X12 and 10X13.Trued them up with sandpaper stapled to finish plywood,then recut edges,first by beveling the outside slightly by hand and cutting the inside edge with a high speed,small hand router with a new bit.This edge profile is so close to factory,I could'nt believe it!These drums had the advantage of basswood interiors,so no raw lauan to split and fray.Best I ever did on Lauan was a double round-over profile-little chance of splitting but an Eagles-like tone for an end result.Of course,the coated Pins on top may have had something to do with that.....

That's really cool! I'd love to be able to do my own edges. I'm not a handyman or woodworker by any means, thus I have only "common" tools that everyone else has. I would love to be able to do my own edges, though. Do you just use a common router? I don't even know what a router looks like!

I may ask Precision for their advice on how best to cut the edge, as I am sure they have experience with those types of drums and would know what works best. I usually go for a double 45 on any drums I have (be it for rock, jazz, whatever), however, any previous bearing edge work I have had done have not been on older, vintage drums. I know I would get opposition on the double 45 thing, but to me, that gives the drum it's most resonant, open sounding potential. To me, that's what you would want ANY drum to have. The strongest influence on drum sound is head selection and tuning anyway, not the bearing edge. However, the edge and how it's cut will make a difference on the ease of tuning and fullness or resonance. It's funny, but these CB 700's don't seem to have a bearing edge at all. It's like they were just cut from a longer shell on both sides and were left that way.

Again, I'm sure whatever Precision does will make them way better than they are now. The shells are true and in round, so with a decent bearing edge and good quality heads (probably Coated Ambassadors), they should sound pretty darned good.

I have some shells like that. A complete drum, seems like it missed the router room and sounds it. THUD and nothing more. I have cut my own as well, and I use both a router or if it's a simple re-contour, not a complete change, I will use sandpaper, but you are going from no edge and that needs a router.