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Putting snare beds in a brass shell

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I know some of the drum builders used a 2x4 piece of wood to add the beds. Not sure what method they used though.

"Failing to prepare, is preparing to fail". John Wooden

Blaemire / Jenkins-Martin drums.

http://www.jenkinsmartindrums.com/
Posted on 11 years ago
#11
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Hey thanks for the suggestions guys. At this point I am not going to install beds and see how it comes out. I can always go back and add them or ship the shell to someone who knows what they are doing. I am going to take a close look at my Acrolite as the shell construction is quite similar, at least from a bearing edge standpoint.

I spent about 30 minutes cleaning the tarnish from the shell tonight using lemons. I quickly discovered that scrubbing with a rag was a waste of time and basically just drizzled fresh cut lemons on the shell. I then scrubbed it with the open halves of the lemons. It smells nice and fresh now. I still have no idea if this is a brass shell with copper plating or if it is actually a copper shell. I will probably figure that out while drilling. Regardless, I really like the copper finish.

I have not yet decided on lugs for this. I don't really want to do a standard Slingerland lug as that just seems a little obvious. I am considering a nouveau style lug that is similar to Premier (which would be different and I like Premier), but I am also considering chrome tube lugs with single flange, stick chopper rims. I think that would be slick but may be more than I really want to spend on this shell, at least for right now.

Once the shell is drilled I will give it one more good cleaning followed by polishing and sealing. Any suggestions on a polishing method and what to use for sealing?

Here is a picture after a really painless and quick cleaning.

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tnsquint
Very proud owner of a new Blaemire Snare 6.5 x 14 made by Jerry Jenkins "Drumjinx"
Posted on 11 years ago
#12
Posts: 430 Threads: 15
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The text supplied in the ebay listing is not really accurate. Brass shells do not usually have the copper plating applied since the brass itself is primarily copper. They are plated with nickel and then chrome. Shells made from a metal other than brass, such as steel or aluminum, have copper plating applied first, then the nickel and chrome.

Also, it would be unusual for shells to be made from 100% copper as that metal is pretty soft when not alloyed with zinc or tin.

Posted on 11 years ago
#13
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That is very helpful. Any idea what you think this shell might be made from?

It's nice to have a metallurgist on the site.

tnsquint
Very proud owner of a new Blaemire Snare 6.5 x 14 made by Jerry Jenkins "Drumjinx"
Posted on 11 years ago
#14
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I built one of these shells out, but mine had beds. Also the box it came in had 6 1/2 bronze shell and Slingerland printed on it. Have you put your shell on a flat surface to check for very shallow beds?

Posted on 11 years ago
#15
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Well of course...I haven't.

The eBay ad stated "no beds" and I did not even think to check that. As always, don't think I am not stupid.

Great idea. If there are not beds I am considering using extended wires as another option. Anyone have any suggestions besides TDR's?

tnsquint
Very proud owner of a new Blaemire Snare 6.5 x 14 made by Jerry Jenkins "Drumjinx"
Posted on 11 years ago
#16
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Scott - 2 suggestions...

1. A Rogers Dynasonic set-up with a clockface strainer & butt plate, frame and snares underneath. Dynasonics do not have snare beds.

2. A Ludwig super-sensitive strainer set along with extended snares.

Either rig/set-up will work on a shell without beds.

John

Too many great drums to list here!

http://www.walbergandauge.com/VintageVenue.htm
Posted on 11 years ago
#17
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From Purdie Shuffle

Scott - 2 suggestions...1. A Rogers Dynasonic set-up with a clockface strainer & butt plate, frame and snares underneath. Dynasonics do not have snare beds.2. A Ludwig super-sensitive strainer set along with extended snares.Either rig/set-up will work on a shell without beds.John

John,

Thanks for the tips. I think I would feel remiss if I tied up a perfectly good Dynasonic rig for my project when there may be a Dynasonic owner in need of a strainer or, more likely, a snare bridge.

I think the Super Sensitive is just too fragile for my taste. If the drum comes out ok, I will occasionally use it for rental purposes and I can see a Super Sensitive strainer coming home in pieces.

I really know nothing about the TDR strainer other than it appears to do the same thing. I don't know if you can get extended snares for them these days or how well they work. They "look" more robust.

I certainly appreciate the always wise counsel and am still coveting your custom Super Sensitive by the way!

tnsquint
Very proud owner of a new Blaemire Snare 6.5 x 14 made by Jerry Jenkins "Drumjinx"
Posted on 11 years ago
#18
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Scott - regardless of which across-the-drum snare system you use, what you'll end up with is a really sensitive concert drum. Snare drums with those set-ups are very 'touch-sensitive,' the snares 'response' is crisp, articulate, immediate and when tuned medium-high they are completely unforgiving of player mistakes. You'll hear every tic of a ghost note no matter how softly it is played. For this type of snare set-up, think 'concert snare' in terms of the sound. The jazz and fusion drummers will love it.

John

Too many great drums to list here!

http://www.walbergandauge.com/VintageVenue.htm
Posted on 11 years ago
#19
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