I would remove the glue first using lacquer thinner or excylen (spelling ?). Then fill the holes, glue any loose veneer if its still good, then use wood filler to smooth it all out. Now we can argue on glueing the entire wrap or using the tape on the seems only. Either will work. Keep in mind I have never used the Delmar wraps, I am a wood worker and like to use veneers or I just get my shells smooth enough to paint. OK, next!

JC

Yo Scotty,

I just restored a '58 Ludwig kit and what I did was strip the old glue off...sand clean...then fill...then sand again. I used Jasco paint/glue remover, which is real strong stuff, but it works well and didn't seem to cause any issues to the wood. I know you want to sand all of that stuff off though (or any stripper for that matter), otherwise it might be difficult to keep your new wrap from staying on. I have not had any problems with this, so far. If you go this route, make sure you work in small sections and scrape clean scrape away with a plastic putty knife as soon as you see the old glue bubbling up. I would then sand the entire drum clean once you are finished with the stripper. After that, you can fill your holes with dowels/filler, patch any pieces of missing wood and sand away! I used this product called PC Woody to fill and wow...it works great! It's like JB Weld for wood, as you have to mix 2 pastes together, and seems to bond really well, yet is easy to sand! Here's a link to the kit I just restored. Good luck! It's totally worth the time and effort when you get to see and play your finished product!

http://vintagedrumforum.com/showthread.php?t=29029

I pretty much think what the other guys are saying will definately work.

I just did the same thing with a orphan Bass drum and built a set with other early 60's shells. You can see my process on my thread too if you want to check it out. I had the same issues you do.

http://www.vintagedrumforum.com/showthread.php?t=23109&highlight=12%22x22%22+Slingerland+1960

Thanks for the advice everyone. I guess was most worried about the stripper damaging the inner ply because it's so soft. So from what I've read,

Glue down any loose ply

Use the stripper in small areas at a time

Fill missing ply areas

Sand entire shell smooth

This sound right?

The only thing I would do different is use the exylen or lac thinner to get the old glue up. If you use a stripper watch what kind, some leave a oily residue that takes days to dry out. Take a shop towel, soke it in thinner then lay it over the shell for five minutes. You should be able to srape off the adhesive now. It will be gooey and sticky and will ball up on the knife so be ready with some paper towels to wipe off the knife. Just dont throw all of the gooey paper towels in a plile or in a garbage can, lay them out or hang them around the rim of the garbage can to dry out, dont start a fire, we want to see the drums completed. Its a messy pain in the neck but after you get the glue off then wipe the shells one more time with thinner. Good luck !

JC

The only things I can add:

1) DON'T use GOO-GONE to remove the glue.

2) I use Rock Hard water putty to fill in small extra holes and replace areas of missing outer-ply.

You've already gotten GREAT advice! Good luck!

Bill

Why not Goo-gone? I have never used it and kinda wondered if it was any good.

I used it on a 60s Slingerland shell that I had removed chrome metal wrap. The wrap actually on this shell came off pretty easy (and you know THAT isn't always the case!), but MOST of the glue remained on the shell. I thought goo-gone would be the way to go, based upon limited past experience. HOWEVER, my experience had NOT been on a shell with a Mahogany outer ply -- and when I sprayed it down with the goo-gone, it just absorbed into that soft, grainy outer ply and left a bigger mess than I had in the first place. Took me probably 2-3 time longer to clean up the outside of the shell than if I had just tried to scrape the glue off dry!

I hadn't had that happen before, but had only used it on the taped seams on FG shells and on a couple of drums that had a harder type of wood on the outer ply. I hope all that made sense...

Bill

Thanks for good information guys. I'm mainly posting so I can store this thread without having to search for days to find it. I'm hoping to wrap a Slingerland kit later this year or early next year. Trust me, they need a rewrap...not doing it for the fun of it by any means.

Blessings!

Lynn