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Premier Tom Mounting Bracket

Posts: 5240 Threads: 1231

I got this crazy idea on how to get the tom at a good placement on my Premier kit using the original tom arm and mounting bracket. I'm thinking since the kick already has extra holes due to the modern kick legs, I'd move the tom mounting bracket towards the middle of the kick. The mounting bracket has three small screws holding it on the kick, so I'd only have to drill three small holes. If you look at the attached picture, you'll see what I'm talking about. Where the mounting bracket is now it places the tom too far to the right with the tom arm.

What do you guys think?

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Posted on 3 years ago
#1
Posts: 1427 Threads: 66

What I did on my D-20 kit is use a rims mount and take the rail off the bass and plate off the 12.

Looks good; sounds good and I can put the Tom anywhere. Also, fully reversible if you sell later.

Extra holes are always a problem with collectors. That said, I’m planning some on my (rate) 10” RC kick to mount a cymbal…

Cobalt Blue Yamaha Recording Custom 20b-22b-8-10-12-13-15-16f-18f
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
Posted on 3 years ago
#2
Posts: 5240 Threads: 1231

I understand that it's not a good idea to drill extra holes, but there are already extra holes on the kick due to the modern kick legs. I don't really like the rims system, especially on vintage drums.

Posted on 3 years ago
#3
Posts: 1427 Threads: 66

I agree RIMS look bad on vintage drums but the sound….

And with creativity, you put the mount on the bottom head and “hide” the mount. It depends on how heavy you play, but it can be worked out.

In my case, I used a concert snare stand with the basket removed. The hex is the same as a Tom mount. That goes into the mount on the rims mount. It also holds a cymbal so it’s not too cluttered.

More focus on sound than appearance in my case, but I think it can be done tastefully.

Cobalt Blue Yamaha Recording Custom 20b-22b-8-10-12-13-15-16f-18f
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
Posted on 3 years ago
#4
Posts: 5240 Threads: 1231

I don't think it changes the sound that much, I've had the rims system on other kits, I just don't like them. The tom brackets on this Premier kit are attached with just three screws, there's no hole big hole in the kick or tom. The tom arm attaches to the bracket on the kick and tom and the tom resonates just fine, it's the positioning I have a problem with. That's why I'm thinking about moving the bracket over a few inches on the kick.

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Posted on 3 years ago
#5
Posts: 1427 Threads: 66

My friend has a round badge kit and it’s night and day…

Cobalt Blue Yamaha Recording Custom 20b-22b-8-10-12-13-15-16f-18f
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
Posted on 3 years ago
#6
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