First of all, they need to be radiused properly, otherwise the ends and those pesky corners will tend to pull up. The badge must be OVER-radiused slightly, i.e. have a tiny bit more curve than the drum shell.

I use lacquer thinner on cotton swabs to clean the back of the badge, and then apply thin, double-sided hi-bond acrylic tape, the same kind used for quickie wrap jobs. The brand I use is called Speed Tape. I also clean the area on the shell where the badge will be placed with naptha, which will not harm pearl or lacquer finishes. You need to clean both the badge and the surface for maximum adhesion.

The real issue comes when you crimp the eyelet after inserting it through the badge. The force in the center if you overcrimp can cause the badge to buckle and the ends to pull up. As a result, though it isn't QUITE vintage-exact, I clean up the uncrimped end of the original eyelet on a belt sander, so that when inserted, it sits flush with the inside of the shell, and use a drop or two of thick CA adhesive (you can use Super Glue Gel) around the shank of the eyelet to hold it in place. To me, it's more important not to buckle the badge accidentally.

Great tips! Feeling confidant now, just need to post some pics.

Thanks!

Glen