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Power toms cut down??..nay..nay.

Posts: 2433 Threads: 483
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A topic on another forum suggests NOT to cut down 13x11,12x10 etc toms because they are going to make a come back, AND the sound is margainally noticeable from standard sizes.

My problem is the look of them and the ability to "fit" them into the kit. Sound wise they,re ok. ....whats your opinion?

Hit like you mean it!!
Posted on 8 years ago
#1
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I see it two ways.

1. They are your drums, do whatever you want to them! If you want to cut them down so they fit better for you and you like them better that way then do it.

2. If you ever want to resell, leave them alone! There is nothing more frustrating than trying to sell a kit that has been modified.

Trying to predict the market and future fads is impossible, however, it is always a safe bet to leave them original.

Posted on 8 years ago
#2
Posts: 1427 Threads: 66
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When I bought my blue kit (1993 I think) it was all but impossible to get standard toms. Even Yamaha was pushing the "power" and "Force" lines really hard. My drums are dated from 1980-1989 even though I bought them new.

Anyway, I knew deep toms were not the "future" and that limited my choices. However, I can't think of anything better I could have bought in 1993 that would have given me more bang for the buck, OR has held its value as well.

I am open to suggestions if anyone knows of any.

To the point, if you plant to play these until you die, do whatever you want with them. Preserving them is like buying a car and not driving it to preserve the value... Don't buy the car!

Cobalt Blue Yamaha Recording Custom 20b-22b-8-10-12-13-15-16f-18f
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
Posted on 8 years ago
#3
Posts: 2433 Threads: 483
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Good point Jim. I'm hearing from a few shops that players are not getting the full sound from "short stack" toms they hoped for. I mean 10 and 12" specifically. Floor toms are not an issue due to the size, but those smaller toms seem to like a little extra depth. I re visited my old 10x9 and 12x10 and I really paid attention to my tuning and the resonance I wanted to hear..And there it was!!..I just have to get over the fact they are "power" toms and not "standard"...why?, because I'm stuck in the past and evidentally, a snob!Eye Ball

Hit like you mean it!!
Posted on 8 years ago
#4
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Go ahead and cut them! If power toms really make a comeback there will be lots available any way!

http://compactdrums.com/

http://walopus.com/
Posted on 8 years ago
#5
Posts: 1427 Threads: 66
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From wayne

Good point Jim. I'm hearing from a few shops that players are not getting the full sound from "short stack" toms they hoped for. I mean 10 and 12" specifically. Floor toms are not an issue due to the size, but those smaller toms seem to like a little extra depth. I re visited my old 10x9 and 12x10 and I really paid attention to my tuning and the resonance I wanted to hear..And there it was!!..I just have to get over the fact they are "power" toms and not "standard"...why?, because I'm stuck in the past and evidentally, a snob!Eye Ball

Well, at risk of sounding like a snob myself, I have found most "dead" drums are due to shot heads tuned poorly much more so than because of additional depth to the shell. Deeper tons are not louder- their resonant durface area is the same. The longer air column causes them to react slower (to me anyway) and I certainly don't need to be slowed dos beyond my lack of technique!

I do think that some drums (regardless of depth) have a sweet spot where they are most resonant and really sing. This is where they will be loudest.

So, a poorly tuned deep Tom will not be as loud or resonant as a well tuned standard Tom.

Any depth will do the job but why lug around extra weight? If you need more volume increase diameter, not depth.

Ask Joe Morello what he thinks of "deep" bass drums...

Cobalt Blue Yamaha Recording Custom 20b-22b-8-10-12-13-15-16f-18f
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
Posted on 8 years ago
#6
Posts: 2433 Threads: 483
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"Increase diameter, not depth"..i agree, for larger drums...BUT, A 10 and a 12" tom, as small as they are, seem to favor a little xtra depth. Maybe that's why they are here??

I,ve never had a problem tuning big drums, they are what they are, but those little buggers can make you crazy...I,ve also decided that 2 ply heads are not resonate enough for me on the 10 and 12...just my opinion.:2Cents:

Hit like you mean it!!
Posted on 8 years ago
#7
Posts: 1427 Threads: 66
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Well most 10's are 8" deep like a 12 and that seems to be plenty. I agree they can choke up, especially when hit hard, if they are 7" deep. But I don't think a 10 needs to be 9+ inches deep.

I think the Yamaha 8,10 and 12 are all 8" deep come to think of it. An 8x6 deep would probably also choke up. On my old kit I had a 6-8-10-12 concert toms so that wasn't an issue. The 6 sounded more like a temple block than a drum however.

I run pinstripes on my blue kit but I agree some drums favor certain heads. CS dots or even clear ambassador heads might sing more for you.

Cobalt Blue Yamaha Recording Custom 20b-22b-8-10-12-13-15-16f-18f
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
Posted on 8 years ago
#8
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