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Possible to repair these cymbal stands?

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First problem.

I have this boom stand.

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/iWFAxSS.jpg?1[/IMG]

What you're seeing is the weight at the other end of the pipe where the cymbal goes. It's coming loose because there's supposed to be something holding it in place in the hole you're seeing. I'm not exactly sure what it is but I think it might be the following part I've seen on another stand.

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/EiuBeEy.jpg?1[/IMG]

So my question would be, anyone know what this is? The part's name? And also how I can get a hold of it?

Second problem.

On the following picture, a screw is supposed to go in there to secure the base of the stand.

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/dCQZWb9.jpg?1[/IMG]

The problem is that the inside of the hole is worn out. If I try to screw in the missing part, it screw in indefinitely... There's no resistance. I'm not sure if this is even fixable. I was thinking of trying to find a slightly bigger screw hoping that it would reach the worn out inside of the hole. Any suggestions? Thanks.

Posted on 9 years ago
#1
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It's an Allen screw. Take the one you have to your local hardware and find a match for it. While you're there, you can pick up an Allen Key/wrench to install it!

Common part, don't worry. Shouldn't be hard to find.

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-50484A-Allen-Socket-Assortment/dp/B000K7IWDK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435440374&sr=8-1&keywords=allen+wrench+screws"]Neiko 50484A Allen Head Socket Hex Set Screw Assortment (200 Piece) - Hex Screw Assortment - Amazon.com@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51TSXwz2OIL.@@AMEPARAM@@51TSXwz2OIL[/ame]

If the threads are shot, you'll have to re-tap the hole for the next size up Allen screw.

John

Too many great drums to list here!

http://www.walbergandauge.com/VintageVenue.htm
Posted on 9 years ago
#2
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The first part is called a "roll pin" and is a common hardware store part. They are tapered on the ends to facilitate lining up to the hole. When reinstalling make sure to hold the weight down on a hard surface like the anvil of a vise when driving the pin in. The second problem will either be remedied by rethreading to a larger size and using a larger thread T handle screw or redrilling and using a thread -restoring insert like a heli-coil. I'd use the heli-coil because it's MUCH harder than the pot-metal part and will never strip again.

Posted on 9 years ago
#3
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The fastener you are looking for is called a roll pin, and my local hardware store carries them. A good full-line hardware store should have them.

You install it using a small punch (just smaller than the hole), which you can also get at the hardware store.

I usually just bring the piece to the hardware store so that I can fit the correct fastener without having to guess.

As for the base of the stand, are you sure that you have the correct size screw? Some are metric, some are english, etc.

If you are sure that you have the right screw, and it is stripped out, one option is to drill it and tap it to the next larger size. Again, the tools for this are at the hardware store, or you might get a local machine shop to take care of it for you.

-Erik
______
Early '70's Slingerland New Rock #50 in blue agate (20-16-13-12)
Late '50's WFL Swingster/Barrett Deems in black/gold Duco
'70's Slingerland Gene Krupa Sound King COB
'76 Ludwig Supraphonic
early '70's Ludwig Acrolite
'80's Ludwig Rocker II 6 1/2" snare
Rogers Supreme Big "R" hi hat
Posted on 9 years ago
#4
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Thanks for the replies!

Posted on 9 years ago
#5
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The bottom pic looks like a Tama stand. I had that happen to a Tama stand, but never fixed it. I used it without a screw and it worked until I got another. Sometimes silicone tape, or pipe thread tape wrapped around the screw threads works.

I hate repairing stripped threads; it might be easier and less trouble to just buy another stand. Used ones are fairly inexpensive.

Posted on 9 years ago
#6
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Purchase a heli-coil set to replace thread size 8mm x 1.25 for your Tama stand. This is a relatively easy repair. If you lack the experience doing it anyone with amateur machine shop skills can be found to assist you.

If you have the original wingnut you must inspect it for any residue clogging the threads, and/or use a 8mm x 1.25mm hex die to correct the threading to its original specs before inserting it for use. Otherwise you risk stripping out any repaired threads.

I don't recommend actually attempting to re-thread the casting itself to a larger threading, because the hole diameter will first have to be enlarged to accept a very ugly 3/8" diameter wingscrew and that will greatly detract from the appearance.

As for the roll pins, some can be easily gripped and removed. Others are counter sunk and if they can't be knocked out through the other side using a pin punch (meaning there's only one insertion opening as opposed to a channel transversing the entire tubing) the only option is to attempt drilling them out, which can be a quite daunting proposition.

Posted on 9 years ago
#7
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