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polishing vistalites.... *&%$!!@#

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Ok, so after looking about the forums a bit, I got some decent shape Vistalites that I wanted to fix up....... I got the Meguires headlight polish kit, and got to work... things went well. The light marks vanished, and the medium marks got really really light... then I worked on a little more significant mark.. while working on it, I ended up with a POLISHING BURN!!!! AAAAAHHHHH I'm been working on it patiently.. and in about 2 hours, I've gotten it to shrink... but I bet there's plenty more time in it. I've read that an ultra ultra fine sandpaper can give you a jump on bigger scratches...

Please don't send me Novus "told ya so's" I'm cranky enough about it. I intend to use this set at church when it's done... so athough I thought many things to say... OH MAN!...... This Stinks! and What now!?!? were the only things I actually did say. God has a sense of humor I guess and intends for me to keep using my existing drums? Or he's trying to teach me patience... yeah yeah... how long will that take. LOL.

Posted on 14 years ago
#1
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You'll learn to forgive yourself in time and get over it man!

it's your intention that is still un-scratched.

"If we don't sound good, at least we can still LOOK good!"-J
Posted on 14 years ago
#2
Posts: 6287 Threads: 375
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Pray for patience.... and then be prepared to wait for it awhile.....:)

Kevin
Posted on 14 years ago
#3
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So that I may learn from your experience-- what EXACTLY would you do differently to ensure no "polishing burn" ??

Thanks!!

Jeff


- Current restoration Project: Geo Way 5 piece
- 60's Oaklawn Walnut Camco kit (12/12/14/20) matching Snare (Camco hardware and Paiste black logo 2002s)
- 70's LA Maple Camco kit (12/13/16/22) matching Oaklawn snare (Rogers hardware and Paiste Signatures/Mellow ride)
- 70's Blue Vistalite Ludwig Monster kit (6/8/12/13/14/15/16/18/24) matching snare (all Hercules hardware, all Zidljian shadow logos)
Posted on 14 years ago
#4
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And would you show us what it looks like?

"Ignorance may be overcome through education. Stupidity, however, is a lifelong endeavor." So, educate me, I don't likes bein' ignant...
"I enjoy restoring 60s Japanese "stencil" drums...I can actually afford them..."I rescue the worst of the old valueless drums for disadvantaged Children and gladly accept donations of parts, pieces and orphans, No cockroaches, please...
http://www.youtube.com/user/karstenboy
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Coffee...16613138379603
Posted on 14 years ago
#5
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If you choose the Meguires system like I did.. (it works pretty well)... and it's easy... You will have the buffing compound, and a buffing pad that you put in a drill.... (right angle drill works better)..... as you polish anything at a high rate of speed, it will gloss right up.. and heat up too. if it gets too hot, the plastic shell will MELT!!! it produces a rough white spot. Mine was a little bigger than a quarter. They are a royal nightmare to get out... Although I did finally achieve it.

The best advice.. and now what I'm doing... I'm putting the shell over my leg.. so my leg is INSIDE the shell and the underside of the surface being polished is resting on my leg. This way I can feel the heat through my jeans, and I know when to move to another area...

The burn will happen if you stay in one spot too long, or apply too much pressure. you can push firmly, but be prepared to keep your buffer moving. On rough spots that need much work... work it a bit, move to another area while it cools, and come back to it.

So far this Vista Project is going pretty well. It's kind of fun.. in a "this is gonna take forever and it better turn out great" kind of way.

Bottom line, monitor the heat of the area you are buffing.. and don't let it get too hot!!!

Posted on 14 years ago
#6
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I just saw your questin Jonnystix about what it looks like... I already got mine out... but in any event, it becomes a white spot.. and the surface is rough to the touch. mine was about a 32nd of an inch deep.

Posted on 14 years ago
#7
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