Without a pic. it`s hard to say !!

It would depend on how many plies, re-rings or not, height of drum, type of wood, ect. !! We can`t really guess all that stuff !!

Is the head touching the bearing edge? Does the head tune to a tone with resonance? I'd be surprised if it (IF it is an older drum) wasn't out of round in some way.

I've seen a lot of kits (3 to 5 ply shells, re-rings) that were out of round from a slight warp of a 1/4" to well over an 1 1/2". Push, pull or bar clap shells into round and pop the heads on and they tuned up just fine.

Now if the bearing edges are cut, split or chewed up in some way, then you'd have issues getting them to tune up properly.

Apologies, yes it is a vintage drum, 3 ply with re-rings. I don't have a picture handy.

The bearing edge is in excellent condition. I can get tension on the heads to tune, but you can see the space between the rim and collar, and you can just feel the strain of it all when you tighten to tune.

Thoughts?

Kevin

Few ideas that can solve the problem .

1) If a vintage drum many did not have reinforced edges or to say a lip over a lip, They relayed back then on the thickness or ply of the wood. Some of these drum were not made to use plastic heads They are much stronger and with whole tons of pressure. Recommend to change head to Calf head less pressure.

2) If you know a metal worker get him to make you a round Rim equal to the dimensions of the inner drum. Place in the top were drum is collapsing at . This will hold In round. Also must tune evenly at all times.

Kevin,

I had a 14x14 early 70s Ludwig Club Date FT a couple of summers back that the bottom head and rim had been removed at some point during that single-headed sound popular era. Now tellin' how long it had been left that way. The bottom side of it was more football (or egg) shaped than round, and there was no way a head would fit.

I fixed it dry.

1) I took a regular large pipe clamp and clamped it at the ****hest point and then began slowly bringing it back into round with the intention of stopping as soon as I heard any cracking and popping, which didn't happen. So I actually brough it in further than needed, figuring it would spring back a little. Then for added measure, I wrapped a strap clamp around it as well (which gives equal pressure all of the way around), and left it set for a couple of weeks.

2) Took the clamps off, and yes it sprung back a little so I repeated the process and gave it a couple more weeks. (In a temperature controlled room, BTW.)

After that second time it was close enough that the head and rim went on without any problems and of course will keep it from going back to it's football shape.

Bill

^^^^^^^^^^^

This sounds like what you need to try first !!

PS: Not all head manufacturers fit the same, some have a tighter fit, some loose as a goose. Depending on what head type, thickness and flesh hoop style (U channel, crimp loc or wrap over), you're bound to get variations on fit.

I wouldn't worry about seeing space between the shell and the head. You'll probably get better tuning with a loose fit because the shell isn't causing any binding with the flesh hoop, you have unrestricted contact with the bearing edge. Your sound is all head vibration and all shell resonance. It's all good. It's ideal.