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One more Speed King question, then I'm done

Posts: 1017 Threads: 349
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First let me say: I hate roll pins. I understand that it's less expensive for production and all, but they are ridiculous. I believe my next SK will be tapped for allen bolts....

Okay, not that I have THAT out of my system...

Anyone have an idea of how to slip an extra something on the roll pin at the toe of the footplate, the part the link hooks to? I thought I had a nifty fix, with a little round nylon spacer over the pin... but the replacement link I got from Ludwig is thicker (and a little shorter) and won't fit (hmmm... I suppose I could grind some metal off...)

Any ideas? Or rely on the old standby: the famous roll pin?

Other than that, the restoration came out great. I plan to post some pics of this one and the two Slingerland Tempo Kings that were just finished. THOSE are cool, and a surprisingly good feel once some of the play is taken out....

to be continued......Mind Blowi

Posted on 12 years ago
#1
Posts: 5356 Threads: 87
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What about a solid pin instead of the rollpin? But that makes me wonder if a roll pin was chosen to become the weak link instead of the pedal casting itself possibly cracking? In the past on larger dia roll pins I have been able to double them up by inserting a smaller dia pin inside of the outer pin used. But your pin size may be a bit too small. If you feel the pedal is beefy enough as is try a solid steel pin. I have also seen some pins that stick out each end and get peened over to hold them inplace. And some with a head on one end and get peened over on the other. A dab of removeable loctite helps hold them secure if the fit is not tight as you'd like. Hopefully someone will have a better answer for you!!

Glenn.

Not a guru just havin fun with some old dusty drums.
Posted on 12 years ago
#2
Posts: 5356 Threads: 87
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BTW just a note on the double roll pin thing you can also use a nail inside the pin as added support. If it's too small to fit another pin inside of. Trim to fit and a dab of loctite, sealer or glue to help it set and hold inside.

Glenn.

Not a guru just havin fun with some old dusty drums.
Posted on 12 years ago
#3
Posts: 1017 Threads: 349
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Thanks for the tip on the pins. I talked it over with a former machinist who is now hardware store guy. I was going to replace these with bolts and nylon-locking bolts. He said that the roll pins are very, very solid steel: spring steel. If you've tried to cut it you've found it's tough indeed! He also thought that for the narrow span - in this case, the 'toe' of the foot board. it's only about .5 inch, that it was about the strongest thing available. I am thinking, however, of using allen head bolls on the rocker assembly for the next SK. it would have a neat appearance, and be plenty strong enough for the rotational force -- we thought.

ANYWAY, here's the answer to the original question. It's still possible to use the newer link on the older pedals with a nylon spacer around the footboard pin for smooth operation. The trick is to take some of the metal off the footboard, at the top, where the link joins it. File away about an eighth inch or so, and it works.

So the SK is done. Nylon bushings at the rotational point of the heel to keep the soft metal of the footboard from wearing oval (like they all do, which causes the slop in the pedal) replaced bearings and springs, gray Hammerite paint on the frame and the footboard. It plays like a dream... great for feathering for jazz.

Fun project. Another is on the way! (The latest version of my unbalanced mind!)

Posted on 12 years ago
#4
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