Mid 68-early 69

Nice drums.

You've got a very clean looking, vintage Rogers White Marine Pearl (WMP) Kit there.

The Dayton Sticker in the kick drum indicates that it was assembled in either Covington or Dayton and warehoused and distributed through CBS in Dayton from 1966-1969.

The beavertail lugs featured on your drums were first available in 1964 and used through 1972 when CBS switched to foreign vendors.

Without knowing the sizes of your drums, it's a little tough to tell what model kit you've got. However, it may be the Roy Burns Starlighter, which featured a Dyna-sonic 5 x 14 snare drum, 9 x 13 Holiday rack tom, 16 x 16 Holiday floor tom and 14 x 22 Holiday Bass drum. We do know that the bass drum is a Holiday Model by the sticker you've shown in one of your pics. You can take a look at your other drums to see if their respective stickers also indicate a Holiday model, which was Rogers' top of the line (in my opinion) at the time.

Hopefully, some true Rogers' experts who contribute to this forum will provide much more information than I'm capable of.

Great looking kit!

Thanks for the help so far ! I thought they were late 60's . They sound amazing , easy to tune and they resonate really well . Very easy to get a good sound out of them ,

Heres the sizes ,

Kick 14x20

Floor Tom 16x16

Tom 8x12

Snare 5x14

I would recommend getting a front hoop and head set up with correct Ts and Claws. That might run you as high as 200.oo but it will save your bass drum from being out of round. I can tell it wasnt always played that way. Might be somewhat already, but putting the front head on and keeping it there, in time, will correct some of that. You set is worth upwards of 1000.00 easy, and that estimate is very conservative.

Ok thanks for the advice . I do have the front ring and all the hardware . I took it off for recording to get the mic up in there but about to put it back on .

That term "being out of round" kinda scares me . What exactly do you mean and what cause this ?

Old school set ups like this put the weight of the toms (in a five piece) top center or forward of top center. Your four piece set up puts the tom weight center offset, a cymbal arm would put its own weight with compounded leverage on the other center offset location on the bass drum. Removing the front head allows for this leveraged weight to pull down on the drum, and over time that would allow the drum to go "out of round," becoming somewhat oval in shape. The best thing.......... is to play that drum with both heads.

Yours is a valuable vintage set, one that demands care and responsibility, in short, you could consider it an investment. A well cared for set appreciates in value. And over time...... you see your investment increase many times over. Vintage sets that command the most money are those that have been cared for, appreciated by their respective owners and remain unchanged through the years. No Drills. No hardware " upgrades. "

Thanks for the advice !

So probably using a tom stand to get the tom off the kick would be best . I do have the ride attachment , but have been using a cymbal stand instead. thanks again ,

Its quite stable and works very well, I have two mid 1960s sets, in four piece configuration. I play them as they set up, and they are very stable, the bass drums have been played this way for better than 40 years with no side effect. But they have been used with both front and rear hoops and heads. They arent warped. You can play the set us as it is, but I would definitely recommend putting that second hoop and head on.