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Novus for a novice? And other questions too....

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Hello,

I am here to soak up your expertise, drum bretheren.

I recently picked up an MIJ "Black Jack" in Blue Onyx rap. Looks cool; reminds me of an old Rogers finish. 3 ply with re-rings. The floor tom and bass drum have an additional re-ring in the center. Sizes are 20"/12"14".

I have heard lots of you talk about Novus here. Since I am a Novus novice, I have some basic, general questions about it:

1. What is Novus and what does it do?

2. Is it meant as a restorer, and can you also use it for general wrap cleaning?

3. Where do you purchase it?

4. Do I need any additional skills/tools to use it, other than a half a brain?

The wrap is in pretty good shape, it's just 45 years old. Scratches and such here and there, but nothing too bad. No seams lifting or cracking.

The set also came with an MIJ chrome snare (no badge). The snare has some rust, pitting and general look of a 40+ year old piece of chrome. Can anyone recommend the best way to clean/polish it up? Obviously chrome polish can be used, but does anyone have any tricks of the trade? Do I dare mention ultra-fine (0000) steel wool?

The same goes for the lugs, brackets etc. Should I follow the same steps as polishing the snare shell?

Finally, what about rusty tension rods/washers? I've heard that vinegar works good, and I've had luck in the past with soaking them in some diluted CLR/warm water mixture overnight, then scrubbing them with a small wire brush. Anyone do anything different?

Thanks for all your help. I am looking forward to another education from all of you fine folks!

V

Posted on 12 years ago
#1
Posts: 5293 Threads: 226
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Novus is a great product for cleaning/restoring wrap...It comes in 3 steps:

Step 1 - Cleans, polishes and adds an anti-static transparent film to the wrap to repel dust (final step used)

Step 2 - Buffs out minor scratches and swirl marks in wrap

Step 3 - For heavy scratches and deeper marks (1st step, if needed)

I`ve always started with step 2 and finished with step 1...Sometimes you may need to repeat if heavy dirt and grime are present...Instructions for using comes with the package...It`s very easy to use...It`s like waxing a car!! Have lots of lint free wipes handy...

Try the 2 oz bottles first to see if you like it...It is available online, glass repair shops, hardware stores, etc...It also comes in 8 oz bottles as well...

For chrome, I`ve always had good luck with NeverDull...It`s a wadding compound that works wonders on chrome...

Hope this helps...

Cheers

1976 Ludwig Mach 4 Thermogloss 26-18-14-14sn
1978 Ludwig Stainless 22-22-18-16-14-13-12 c/w 6-8-10-12-13-14-15-16-18-20-22-24 concert toms
1975 Sonor Phonic Centennials Metallic Pewter 22-16-13-12-14sn (D506)
1971 Ludwig Classic Bowling Ball OBP 22-16-14-13
1960's Stewart Peacock Pearl 20-16-12-14sn
1980`s Ludwig Coliseum Piano Black 8x14 snare
1973 Rogers Superten 5x14 & 6.5x14 COS snares
1970`s John Grey Capri Aquamarine Sparkle 5x14 snare
1941 Ludwig & Ludwig Super 8x14 snare
Posted on 12 years ago
#2
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Thanks for the tips, friend!

There is something about taking apart a drum and seeing it slowly come back to life, even if it is a limited value MIJ. It's even cooler because you can think "Hey, I did that!"

Here is another question for all of you:

These are 3 ply with re-rings, and has the "phillipine mahagony/luan" shells that are common on MIJ's. The wood is old and a bit stringy by nature of course, so here is my question:

I know this is subjective, but what are the pros/cons of lacquering or otherwise sealing the insides of the shells? Me thinks it would help preserve the wood, focus the sound a little more (shell is less sound absorbent) and give the shell a bit more strength/stiffness. Me could be wrong though.

If I do choose to seal the shell interiors, what's the best thing to use? Polyurethane? Lacquer? Shellac? Tung Oil? Maple Syrup?

Thanks,

V

Posted on 12 years ago
#3
Posts: 5293 Threads: 226
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From vyacheslav

Thanks for the tips, friend!There is something about taking apart a drum and seeing it slowly come back to life, even if it is a limited value MIJ. It's even cooler because you can think "Hey, I did that!"Here is another question for all of you:These are 3 ply with re-rings, and has the "phillipine mahagony/luan" shells that are common on MIJ's. The wood is old and a bit stringy by nature of course, so here is my question:I know this is subjective, but what are the pros/cons of lacquering or otherwise sealing the insides of the shells? Me thinks it would help preserve the wood, focus the sound a little more (shell is less sound absorbent) and give the shell a bit more strength/stiffness. Me could be wrong though.If I do choose to seal the shell interiors, what's the best thing to use? Polyurethane? Lacquer? Shellac? Tung Oil? Maple Syrup?Thanks,V

Check this thread out...It should help you...

http://www.vintagedrumforum.com/showthread.php?t=16692&highlight=interior+coating

Cheers

1976 Ludwig Mach 4 Thermogloss 26-18-14-14sn
1978 Ludwig Stainless 22-22-18-16-14-13-12 c/w 6-8-10-12-13-14-15-16-18-20-22-24 concert toms
1975 Sonor Phonic Centennials Metallic Pewter 22-16-13-12-14sn (D506)
1971 Ludwig Classic Bowling Ball OBP 22-16-14-13
1960's Stewart Peacock Pearl 20-16-12-14sn
1980`s Ludwig Coliseum Piano Black 8x14 snare
1973 Rogers Superten 5x14 & 6.5x14 COS snares
1970`s John Grey Capri Aquamarine Sparkle 5x14 snare
1941 Ludwig & Ludwig Super 8x14 snare
Posted on 12 years ago
#4
Posts: 2212 Threads: 95
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Let's see some pics!

Posted on 12 years ago
#5
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Cool, that is good advice. Mostly along the lines of what I was thinking. I know someone mentioned they use shellac instead of polyurethane. Does it make a huge difference? I don't have any shellac, but I do have some polyurethane hanging around that I could use. The main goal is sealing the porous wood and protecting it from problems in the future, while adding some rigidty to those three ply shells.

Here are some pics lucky:

I haven't gotten to the floor tom or snare yet (the snare came without hoops or heads), and I haven't done anything to the bass or rack tom except take everything off and lightly wipe them down with some window cleaner and a scratch free towel, just to get the dust and dirt off of them (rack tom not pictured).

Floor Tom and snare (those legs are SHORT! Maxed out height and the top of the drum is just above my knee).

[IMG]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b12/vyacheslav13/th_P1010001-4.jpg[/IMG]

Dig that blue onyx finish, and the simple, understated name badge.

[IMG]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b12/vyacheslav13/th_P1010002-4.jpg[/IMG]

Bass drum with everything taken off.

[IMG]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b12/vyacheslav13/th_P1010003-3.jpg[/IMG]

I'm planning to get them cleaned up a little bit, then lightly sand the interiors (proabably about 220 grit) to prep them for sealing. I'll check after sanding to see if any small repairs need to be made. Sometimes, I like to put a bit of wood filler where the re-ring meets itself, if there is a small gap.

Anyone have any more advice before I delve into sealing the insides? I plan to be very careful, using painter's tape on the exterior over the holes, and painter's tape on the bearing edge as well. After sealing, I will 000 steel wool the interior so it's nice and smooth, and then clean the lugs with Never Dull and use Novus on the shells. Sound like a plan?

Posted on 12 years ago
#6
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Sealing the interiors with Shellac or Lacquer will not hurt. I personally use Amber Shellac. It gives the wood a nice honey color.

Do what the old school guys did, one coat for the toms and BD and about 300 for the snare. (actually 5 or so will do for the snare).

I've seen old snares with so much shellac inside it's darn near black from age, but they sound so good!

Posted on 12 years ago
#7
Posts: 5356 Threads: 87
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After you tape over the holes press the tape in the hole a bit with your fingertip. This helps get a good seal around the lug and hardware holes. Don't be stingy with the tape either. Use a wide overlap over the holes. I use blue painters tape (3M) and it leaves no sticky residue. Take your time around the bearing edge to get it nice and straight. I then used a nice thick paper to cover the outside of the shell and taped it well on all edges so nothing came through. Those are really cool drums! I dig the wrap color.

Glenn.

Not a guru just havin fun with some old dusty drums.
Posted on 12 years ago
#8
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You can skip the Novus and go to the auto parts place, Pep Boys etc. Get a small tub of Mothers Mag wheel polish. It works better than Novus on the plastic. . . That's right the plastic. Clean the finish with dish soap, water and a sponge. Towel dry. Dip some Mothers on the microfiber rag. swirl it on, Lay into it and buff. Do it again. Use Mothers spray wax and then Showshine buffing with a clean towel. . . BAM !! flowers2. .. I have used it on 20's-60's drums never any damage . . [COLOR="Blue"][SIZE="1"]BOOM[/SIZE][/COLOR]

Keep em Flying ! ✈️
Posted on 12 years ago
#9
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Those are good tips, thanks! I have never used Novus or Mothers. I might try both just to see which I prefer.

Posted on 12 years ago
#10
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