Mikey may have one of these tom brackets. Hang on a minute, he'll stop by. In the meantime, if you want to do a number on them and don't mind spending some time, I'll walk you through it because I love both the size and type of shells. That configuration is reallly after the Clubdate.
Yes, Pearl is the lug type and so are the s/s hoops, but everyone had those, so again, maybe an independent hoop and foundry..., or maybe the Nikkan that O'bop speaks of. Anyway. first thing is to strip them down and sand the interoirs. You'll want to sand them to a fine 100 grit then follow it with 220. This is tedious work. However, the final results are worth it. Get some lacquer and have it on hand. I keep some with a little stain in it ready to go. I just like to "aged" look it gives the finished product.
After you have stripped the shells to bear wrap, and the sanding is done, you'll want to turn your attention to the edges before doing the lacquer. Let's concentrate on the wood first, then we'll get to the finish work. If the edges are in good condition, all you want to do is "close the grain" and maybe you will want to change the contour [COLOR=black]slightly, but only if you need to. Once all of the sanding and edge work and washing the wrap is completed, you waill want to tape the shell. DO THIS BEFORE SANDING THE EDGES TO MINIMIZE ANY DAMAGE TO THE WRAP. I forgot to mention that. You want to do the interior before tape so all of the dust will fall away.
If you have a dust brush for a drafting table, this is a very handy tool for cleaning up before painting. As is a damp cloth. After all sanding is done, apply a coat or two, or three, if you like to the interior and edges. I lacquer my edges, sanding with 4-0000 steel wool between coats, and the edges after the final coat. Always do th eedges between coats, the inrior won't really need it, unless you are just anal that way...as most restorers are...[/COLOR]
Next we will do chrome work...Or you can work on it in between coats of lacquer. Get a $5 cheap spinning toothnrush, or if you can locate one, a detailing brush for about 10. It is the fastest way. I use TurtleWax rubbing compound, everyone has their own fave, but this is the best and fastest, safest way, IMHO....and steel wool and mineral oil for the rods, running them in and out with a screw gun. Works woinders on rusty, gunky rods. I use a 2-00 for rods.
