looks good, lets see more!

Now I just trim the veneer very carefully with one of those knives that you can break off the tip and get a new edge. Then I draw a new crisp line where the veneer overlaps the leading edge. Then carefuly cut the veneer to the proper lenght. You might have to use a little (I hate to say this) filler to pretty up the joint. Then sand with some 180 and pick out your stain. I am lucky having a cabinet shop with about 30 different stains waiting for whatever. I like to make a sample to see how the different ones look on the Mahog veneer. We (wife and I) decided on Cinnamon. They look pretty ugly with out any finish at all.

So, will the veneer lay on top or butt to each other?

Since I build custom cabints for people I want to have the best finish possible. Lets face it, you can build the most beautiful peice in the world but if the finish is no good then you have wasted all of your time building that peice. The first thing some one will do when they see my cabinets is feel the finish. So, in short here are some tips.

I strongly belive in using a system or in other words using products from the same manufacturer. That way you are safe to bet that the stain and finish will work together. I have used M.L. Campbell products for years and really like them. Another thing is people think the more coats they spray the better it will be. Wrong! Finish has specs mesured in dry mills and wet mills. Cant get into that too deep now but I recomend the WOODWEB.COM for more learning.

Anyway, I used a high build product called Level Sealer. You can spray up to 6 mills of this and it wont sag. Amazing stuff, the drums look very smooth, no pits in the grain. It took several coats with sanding in between with 320.

Lets back up for a minute. Forgot mention earlier, do not sand wood with anything over 220 before staining. M.L. Cambell recomends 150 at the most but I find that 180 is better. You dont want the wood so smooth that it wont take the stain.

Back to my finish, after the level sealer I used a pre cat gloss finish (from M.L. Campbell) to top coat with. And here is the complete job all shinny and new. Going to sell these drums now, any idea what to ask? The cymbals are nothing, Old Beverly hats a 22"ZYN and 20" Camber. Tha stands are the nice heavy Gibralter ones, like new. Thanks for reading, that is if you made all the way without getting bored.

Lucky, the veneer will butt. It is too thick to overlap, it would have been a problem becausr the heads were tight anyway

Sorry about the bad spelling, I did this in a hurry.

Back to my finish, after the level sealer I used a pre cat gloss finish again from M.L. Campbell to top coat with. And here is the complete job all shinny and new. Going to sell these drums now, any idea what to ask? The cymbals are nothing. Old Beverly hats a 22"ZYN and 20" Camber. Tha stands are the nice heavy Gibralter ones, like new. Thanks for reading, that is if you made all the way without getting bored.[/QUOTE]

Great Job!!!

So what is the final clear coat? ML Campbell Pre Cat Gloss Finish?

Looks totally pro.

Will that clear coat go on fiberglass?

Where do you get it?

After applying clear coat do you buff out finish?

Thanks Scott, LA, CA

The top coat is from M.L.Campbell called Magnamax. I get it from a midwestern distributer called Oharco Distributing. This top coat is a gloss and no, you do not buff it out. Hope I answered you questions!

Thanks for the nice compiment!

Not sure about fiberglass.